Reflections

We’ve been back “home” for six weeks now, and have been staying in Salem, NH, in an in-law apartment with Jesslyn’s mom, Deb and stepfather, Jim.  I think that situation is supposed to be reversed, but I won’t look a gift horse in the mouth.  It is a great situation for us, thank you so much Deb and Jim.  The past six weeks have really flown by.  I've been spending time job hunting, taking an online Amazon Web Services class, and reading.  I just accepted a job offer with Rethink Robotics in Boston, so we know where we are going to settle down.  I joke that I will be getting paid to play with robots, but in seriousness, I am very excited to work in a revolutionary new area of manufacturing automation called collaborative robotics.  Since we've been home, it has been wonderful to reconnect in person with friends and family, and the New England Fall weather has been phenomenal.  For my final blog post, I thought an FAQ would be fitting since we get asked these questions a lot, and it also happens to be the format of my very first post.

Speaking of reflections and beautiful Fall weather, here is the reflection off a small pond next to the Windham, NH rail trail from a couple weeks ago.

Q:  What was your favorite place?

A:  By far, the most common question we get is something along the lines of “what was your favorite _______?”.  Favorite country, part, city, activity, etc.  It’s a good question, but doesn’t have a concise answer.  We loved so much of our trip, so it is difficult to pick favorites.  We tend to qualify our answers, for example, “our favorite place for a beach vacation”, or “our favorite place to live”.  For beach vacations, we loved the Greek island of Milos.  It was very chill and very affordable.  We also loved Thailand for the scuba diving and the food, in addition to the beach.  Where would we live?  We both thought that Berlin was a super-cool city. 

Q:  What was your favorite activity?

A:  There were many great moments.  Some contenders for the top spot would be scuba diving in the cenote caverns or diving with hammerhead sharks in the Galapagos.  I also loved hiking in the Andes in Ecuador,  and caving and fly fishing in New Zealand. 

Q:  Where was the best food?

A:  As you can probably imagine, the food in Italy was fantastic everywhere, my favorites being a wild boar ragu, spaghetti carbonara, the cured meat and cheese boards, and the fresh truffles.  Some places had specific dishes I fell in love with.  In Croatia, we had 'lamb under the bell', for which you have to place your order a few hours ahead of time.  They build a wood fire and let it burn down to charcoal, then they place the lamb along with potatoes, turnip, and carrots next to the coals.  They cover it all up with a heavy iron dome (the bell) and let it slow roast.  In Vietnam, I loved the pho, with it's rich broth and fresh cilantro, Thai basil, green onions, and chili peppers.  It was my savior when I battled severe head cold.  Overall, however, I have to say that Thai food is my favorite.  It is so flavorful and usually spicy.  I never got sick of it the whole time we were there.  Before our trip I loved pad kee mao, also known as drunken noodles and it is still a favorite.   We also ate a lot of red and green curry.  Both Jesslyn and I had an affinity for green curry.  The good stuff is rich and creamy with coconut milk and gets a lot of its flavor and color from an herb called kefir lime.  In Thailand, we had the best food from the little, dirty places with plastic chairs, no roof, and no sign.

Q:  What was the worst part?

A:  I love when people flip the question and ask about the worsts, because it is often a more interesting story.  We did have some trying experiences, like medical emergencies and theft, and those were the worst, but they were also valuable learning experiences.  What countries are worth skipping?  Jesslyn covered this in her last blog, and I concur.  I would say that Laos wasn’t particularly exciting for us.  Also, while we enjoyed Australia, we didn’t seem to find the rich history, culture, or outdoors we found in other places.  Even the diving on the Great Barrier Reef wasn’t as good as other places.

Q:  What did you miss the most?

A:  Family and friends.  After that, I would say the modern conveniences we take for granted.  After spending the last part of our trip in South America, we missed long, hot showers, fast internet, drinking (or brushing our teeth with) tap water.  Once we left Italy and its gelato, we missed good ice cream.  

Q:  Do you find that people are very different in other parts of the world?

A:  For the most part, I find people of the different cultures we experienced are more similar to us than they are different.  The people we met care about the same things that most Americans care about, like earning a living and having fun with family and friends.  Keep in mind that we only got to know locals on a personal level in places not too different from the U.S. like Europe, New Zealand, Australia, and South America.  The answer to this question might be different had we been to Africa, India, or the Middle East, or if we got to know some of the locals on a more personal level in Asia.  Also keep in the mind that the U.S. is a big, diverse place, so it is hard to generalize, and the people we got to know are a small sample size, so again, tough to generalize about their countries.  I am not saying that all people are the same, but there are bigger differences between people within a country, than between people of different countries.  There are kind people, jerks, outgoing, and shy people everywhere.  I did notice a couple of general differences however.  The first is that I found families to be little tighter knit in other places, often with multiple generations living under the same roof.  The other difference is that while we met some incredibly hard working people, we also encountered many people who tipped the work/life balance more towards life than most of the Americans I know.  I honestly don’t know if that is good or bad, because on one hand, I admire people who don’t care about making lots of money, instead focusing their time on what makes them happy, but on the other hand I also admire those who have made great achievements through hard work and grit.  I guess it is a personal choice and I respect whatever one chooses.

Q:  How does the U.S. compare to the other places you’ve been?

A:  The U.S. does some things better, and some things worse.  As I touched on, I am grateful for the infrastructure that provides clean water, sanitation, and reliable electricity and communications.  The U.S. is also very clean compared to some places.  We were taken aback by the litter in many places in SE Asia.  On a bus in Laos, we witnessed people throw empty foil chip bags out the window without hesitation.  As we were walking along a rural county road in Sapa, Vietnam we couldn’t believe all of the trash strewn along the side of the road.  Our guide tried to explain that the people of the local villages have only recently been exposed to artificial packaging.  Throwing a banana peel on the ground isn’t quite the same as an empty water bottle.  I know it is easy to criticize from our perspective, and that if you are struggling to put food on the table, saving the environment might lower on your list of priorities.  I hope that there is more education to help people understand that protecting the environment is in their best interest economically.

What could we improve in the U.S.?  Well, as good as the infrastructure is here, our public transportation infrastructure seems to be lacking.  The inter and intra city trains are much better in other cities and countries.  Take a ride on the NYC subway, then go to Europe or even Bangkok, and your will find much cleaner, modern, and punctual subways.  Trains between cities in Europe are twice as fast, and half the price.

People in other countries seem to be very well informed on world politics, history, and geography, and know a surprising amount about the US.  They are paying very close attention to the election.  We were often asked, “what’s up with Donald Trump?”, even as far back as a year ago.

We wrote this blog as a way to let everyone know what we were up to, as well as to capture the memories for ourselves.  It isn’t meant as a travel guide, but we are more than happy to share our advice if you are planning your own adventure.  When we get some time, we will add some more maps, curate some photo albums, and restructure the blog to make it easier to navigate.  Thank you to all our friends and family for your support throughout our trip and since our return.  We have been amazed by the number of people who have been following our trip and reading the blog, even people whom we have never met.   We have been happy to share our adventures with all of you!

  - Jake

PS:  Since we've been home, we've been reminded of how special this place is as well.  Here are a few recent pics.

An owl at the town park where Benson's used to be in Hudson, NH.

A stoic cormorant keeping an eye out for fish at Walden Pond in Concord, MA.

A woodpecker at Pawtuckaway State Park in Nottingham, NH.

This garter snake was also at Pawtuckaway.

The Final Stats

Well, I guess you could say I’ve been in hiding because I don’t want to admit (to myself) that our trip around the world is over.  How could it possibly be already?  It feels it just began but at the same time our first stop in June 2015, Scotland, feels like eons ago.  It's no secret that I wasn't ready to come home.  I easily could have kept traveling.  Experiencing beautiful places, learning the world's history as you sit in the midst of its ruins and natural beauty is far superior to watching it on TV from the Northeast U.S.A. or reading about it in a book.  That said, I'm really enjoying being back.  I've had a handful of meltdown moments but I think that I'm enjoying being home more than I expected.  "Home" for now is N.H.  I haven't lived here since 2006 and Jake since 1998.  I am incredibly happy to be around family and friends.  It makes the fact that our trip around the world has ended an afterthought, not the focus of the day-to-day.  One recent Saturday, Jake and I did a local 5K, went to a family party and then had a BBQ with friends.  We couldn't have done all of that while we were on the road, nor while we were living in Brooklyn.  Life is good!

These pics are from our first stop in June 2015, beautiful Scotland

Sorry that this blog is way overdue.  Below are our final trip stats followed by some thoughts on our trip.

Trip Around the World Stats*:

  • Days on the road:  434

  • Countries visited: Jake - 25, Jesslyn - 24

  • Number of different cities we’ve spent the night in:  128

  • Longest consecutive stay in one city:  15 nights in Florence, Italy

  • Longest stay in one accommodation: 10 nights in Nha Trang, Vietnam and 10 nights in Ko Chang, Thailand

  • Shortest stay in one accommodation:  ~3 hours in Guayaquil, Ecuador.  

    • We were supposed to have one night in Guayaquil on our way to Galapagos.  Our flights got delayed and we arrived at about 2AM only to leave for the airport again at 5AM.
  • Flights: 44

  • Trains: 31

  • Buses: 33

  • Ferries / Boats: 34

  • Unique Accommodations: 150

  • Cribbage games we've played: 189, Jake won 110 of them

  • Books I've read: 45
    • Favorites include:
      • Into the Wild by Jon Krakauer
      • Girl on the Train by Paula Hawkins
      • What Alice Forgot by Liane Moriarty
      • Fall of Marigolds by Susan Meissner

  

If we were going to leave for this trip again tomorrow, how would I change the itinerary?

I'd skip Laos and mainland Australia.  We enjoyed both of places but they weren't as special as others.  In Laos, we went to Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng.  Perhaps if we had gone further off of the backpacker trail, Laos would have had more of an impact on me.  Unfortunately, we weren't those type of travelers yet.  Going to a country not many people we know have heard of, never mind have visited, was exotic enough for us when we planned it.  We should have gone further off of the beaten path in Laos.  We did a one day trek which was very disappointing despite having had good reviews.  It was a short walk into a mostly deserted village with no one who was interested in speaking with us.  Perhaps if we had done a multi-day hike into a village where we had the opportunity to learn and experience the culture and customs of the local people, then Laos would have found a special place in my heart.  Although, during the Vietnam war, the U.S.A. dropped thousands of bombs on Laos and many of them are still out there waiting to explode, so maybe it was a good idea that we didn't explore too much.

Tasmania was incredibly beautiful and more like New Zealand than mainland Australia. I feel like I'm going to make some people mad by saying that mainland Australia is skippable.  Don't get me wrong, there are unique animals, beautiful coastlines and mountains, awesome cities with great cuisine, but I think that it's not that different than what you can find in the United States.  My advice is that if want to take the time and spend the money on a far away trip, go to New Zealand, Thailand and/or Vietnam.

As close as we got to Patagonia… El Yeso, a reservoir in the Andes

Where do I wish we went?

We should have gone to Malaysia and Indonesia.  We feared that these places were too dangerous for two American travelers.  Turns out we missed experiencing some of the best SCUBA diving and beaches on the planet.  We met several travelers that had been and had no issues with safety.  After being robbed in Rome, New Zealand and Argentina, we know that bad things can happen at anytime to anyone.  Obviously avoid areas with major conflict, but we know it was a mistake not going to Malaysia and Indonesia.  That's ok though, it gives us a future trip to look forward to!  

If we had skipped mainland Australia we could have made it to Patagonia on this journey.  We made the decision to keep Patagonia for a future trip because we'd prefer to visit in the summer and when we landed in South America in mid-May, winter was coming.

We made the decision to skip Hoi Ann in Vietnam because it sounded really touristy and we weren't sure what the real draw to the town was.  It was one of the hardest itinerary decisions we made and we made it partly because we wanted more down time in Vietnam and less moving around time.  It was a mistake because everyone we met who had traveled in Vietnam had been there and raved about it being one of the best parts of Vietnam if not the-best.  Jake and I have come to appreciate that places are touristy for a reason and sometimes that means they are still worth going to.  I'm happy to say that in 14 months of travel, this is the only itinerary-miss we had.  The others (Laos and mainland Australia) were much bigger decisions that I think can only be judged by me now because we went and experienced them.

 

Now that we've been-there/done-that, where do I want to go back to and spend more time?

Poland:  We went to Kraków and Warsaw but I want to explore more of this part of Eastern Europe.
Czech Republic:  We really enjoyed our six nights (?) in Prague and would love to see more of this interesting country.
Greece:  Experiencing the island of Milos in the Aegean Sea was wonderful.  It is incredibly beautiful and the food is great!  We will visit more Greek islands someday.
Scotland:  We saw a lot of raised eyebrows when we said that we'd be spending the first 13 days of our trip in Scotland.  I think I'd rank this the second most beautiful country we visited falling behind New Zealand.  It's much closer so maybe we can make it back there to explore more of the country including the Outer Hebrides.
Italy:  We spent seven weeks in this country but still didn't get to see it all!  It would be great to go back and spend time in the Alps region, the port city of Genoa, the Northern wine regions of Barbera and Alba, and the far south.  Checking out Sicily would be interesting as well.
Croatia:  We explored the islands of Mjet and Cres as well as the cities of Rovinj, Split and Dubrovnik.  I'd like to see more of the islands and mainland too.
Patagonia:  What we saw of Chile was breathtaking.  We look forward to going back someday to visit the Patagonia region of both Chile and Argentina.
Thailand:  So many islands, so little time!  SCUBA, beaches, Thai food - what's not to love?  I'd also like to make it up to Chiang Rai to do some hiking.
Vietnam:  As I already mentioned, I'd like to see Hoi Ann and I'd love to visit Sapa again during the sunny season when the terraces are filled with people harvesting rice.  I'd also like to visit more of the countryside.
Galápagos Islands: Galapagos will always and forever have a place in my heart.  Jake and I would like to go back someday and experience more of the area on a SCUBA live aboard.

Waterlogged Sapa, I’d love to go back in the sunny season

What other destinations are on my radar?

Estonia & Finland:  Two countries with intriguing history on the Baltic Sea.  I'd like to explore and learn about the people and history.
Iceland:  Viking history, the blue lagoon and hiking on incredible landscape?  Yes please!
Nepal:  I think that the culture and landscape of this country would be like nothing else we've experienced.
Maldives and/or the Seychelles:  We stayed in an overwater hut on our honeymoon in Fiji and I'd love to do that again somewhere new. These seem like the places to do that!
Tanzania:  Who wouldn't want to go and see lions and tigers and bears in their natural habitat?  Jake has become quite the photographer and I'd love to challenge him with capturing the beauty of the African Safari.
United States of America:  Jake and I would love to drive around the U.S. in a campervan like we did in New Zealand.  This time we'll definitely lock the doors at night.  I'd love to see Yellowstone, Glacier, Yosemite, Grand Teton, and Zion National Parks - just to mention a few!
Canada:  I've been to Montreal and Banff National Park but I'd love to visit Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia, Toronto, and Vancouver.

I have more reflections on the trip that I'd like to share but for now it's back to catching up in person with friends and family!

~ Jesslyn

 

* The transportation stats above represent how we got from point A to point B.  For instance, to get from Nha Trang, Vietnam to Phnom Penh, Cambodia, we took one night train to Ho Chi Minh City and then a bus into Cambodia.  We didn’t include time spent on subways, intra-city buses/trains because we’ve taken far too many trips on those to count.  We counted train travel that was more like taking the Amtrak back in the U.S.  In addition, we rented a car in Scotland, Norway, twice in Italy, Australia, and Chile.  We also rented motorbikes in order to explore the islands of Milos, Cres, Mljet and Ko Chang.  Since Jake met up with Lynn and Rob in Budapest while I explored more of Italy with my Dad, I’ve been to one fewer country.

Mexican Food and Cavern Diving

Mexico is a big country with many diverse regions, each with their own traditions, culture, and food.  This blog doesn’t begin to scratch the surface of a vague description like “Mexican food", but is rather just some thoughts about our experience in one small region of the country.

We ate some really good and cheap food in Mexico.  Perhaps the best thing I ate were fish tacos.  We had some fantastic ones at a place on the beach in Cancun.  I know that sounds surprising, but we stayed in an area with mostly Mexicans.  In Cozumel, we stayed in a little villa away from the touristy area and hotels, but close to local restaurants which had very good, and very cheap food.  Full meals at these places are less than $4.  I ate fish fajitas, slow cooked chicken that fell off the bone, and of course, tacos.  We ate a lot of tacos.  The best deal was the 7 peso (48 cents) tacos in Tulum.  Their specialty was tacos al pastor, in which they shave the meat off a big rotating cylinder of pork just like they do for shwarma or a doner.  

Cancun, Cozumel, and Playa del Carmen all have the large tourist trap, chain restaurants.  I am sure you already know this, but stay away from those places.  The food is waaaayy more expensive, and not any better.  In Cozumel, we wanted to find a fun place to watch team USA basketball in the Olympics, and thought Margaritaville might be the place since we couldn’t find a “local” sports bar.  We took one look at the menu and decided to just have a drink and eat elsewhere.  The price of food was roughly seven times more expensive than at the local places.  We couldn’t justify a $14 quesadilla even if Jimmy Buffet made it himself.

At our cooking class in Tulum, Jesslyn and I were the only students, and it was held in our teacher’s home.  We made a few tortillas, a beef dish, and a few different salsas.  As we cooked, we sipped mezcal and snacked on some grasshoppers.  I know what you are thinking, but don’t worry, the mezcal didn’t have a worm.  We were surprised at how simple, but delicious the food we cooked was.  We were most excited to learn how to make tortillas.  Jesslyn had never cared for corn tortillas, and if you have ever bought them from the store, you know that the texture is a bit grainy, and they tend to fall apart.  The fresh ones are a different story.  In Tulum, Jesslyn went down to the neighborhood tortilleria and when they asked “cuanto?”, she replied “cinco”, to indicate she wanted to five tortillas.  Instead, she got five pesos (27 cents) worth, which was a tall stack of about 25.  They were so good.  For breakfast, we put scrambled eggs with cheese and chorizo on them.  The next day, the quality of the tortillas had dropped off a bit, and even more the day after that.  Now I know why the store bought ones are so bad.  Our cooking teacher told us that they tried selling packaged corn tortillas in the grocery store in Mexico, but it didn't work.  The local torillerias distribute their product in coolers to all the convenience stores in town each morning.  So, you can get warm tortillas made that day at any 7-Eleven.

Tulum was my favorite spot we visited in Mexico.  It has one of the nicest beaches I have been to anywhere in the world, and still has a lot of local charm.  We stayed at an AirBnB apartment in town and pedaled bicycles 20 minutes to the beach each day.  Tulum is also situated near many cenotes, including the two we dove in called “The Pit” and “Dos Ojos”.  Cenotes (pronounced say-NO-tays) are natural sink holes which open up to the vast network of underground and underwater caves.  Scuba diving in these caves is absolutely incredible.  We have been very lucky to do a lot of fantastic dives on this trip, but we have never done anything like this.  It was one of the most incredible experiences we had on the trip.  These caves were above water at one (or more) points in earth’s history, and during that time many stalagmites, stalactites, and columns have formed.  The streaks of light beaming down through the openings create spotlights in various shades of blue.  We swam underground and surfaced in a cave full of bats (there is an opening in the ceiling they use to enter and leave).  

As you can imagine, diving in a cave is pretty dangerous, and therefore requires a great deal of special training and equipment.  However, we didn’t technically go into “caves”, we dove in “caverns”.  What’s the difference?  In a cavern, you can always see natural light, so if you have a problem, you know which way to swim to get to the surface.  Since The Pit and Dos Ojos are popular dive sites, there are fixed ropes marking underwater the routes.  As long as you stay with the guide and don’t leave the ropes, it is very safe.  People have died in these places, but it was because they wandered away from the ropes into a cave, got disoriented and couldn’t find their way out.  I didn’t take any pics underwater, but thank you to Dos Ojos Scuba for this one.

Divers at the Dos Ojos cenote.  Credit:  http://www.divedosojos.com

Stay tuned for a wrap up post!

 - Jake

 

Liberating Sea Turtles in Cozumel, Mexico

I don't remember exactly when I fell in love with sea turtles but it was sometime over the past few years.  Seeing them makes me very happy.  The first time I swam with them was in the Caribbean off the shores of Curacao in 2013.  We were laying on the beach and suddenly we saw their tiny heads surface, so we grabbed our snorkel equipment and swam along side them.  It was an incredible experience and the turtles must have been young because I remember them being about the size of a frisbee.  Then this year we went to Galapagos and I swam with more sea turtles than I ever thought possible.  These ones were much, much larger.  We also saw turtles while diving in Thailand but Galapagos is where we saw hundreds of them.

That's me, snorkeling with a big green sea turtle near Los Tuneles off of Isla Isabela in the Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

Galapagos was where I learned more about the behavior of sea turtles which makes these creatures even more fascinating to me.  Like salmon, sea turtles return to where they were born to lay their eggs.  They come ashore once the sun has set, dig a hole, lay their eggs, cover them with sand, and return to the sea.  There are seven different kinds of sea turtles and depending on the species, they lay 70 to 190 eggs at a time.  Some turtles don't reach sexual maturity, i.e., lay eggs, until they are 40 years old.  After the eggs hatch six to ten weeks later, it may take up to another week before the baby turtles have dug themselves out of the hole.  Once out, they immediately waddle their way into the sea.  It's amazing if they make it that far given that there are many native and man-introduced predators that love to snack on turtle eggs and baby turtles.  Predators include many species of birds, raccoons, rats, and mice.  I don't know what's more fascinating to me - that the turtles may travel as far as 1400 miles to return to their nesting grounds, or that temperature determines the sex of the egg.  Yup, you read that correctly.  If the temperature of the sand where the eggs are resting is above 85 degrees Fahrenheit then the turtles will most likely be female and if it's below 85 degrees then they will most likely be male.  Crazy right?!  I sure think so.

When we booked our week in Cozumel, Mexico, the thought never even occurred to me that we might be able to experience the sight of seeing baby turtles hatch and enter the sea.  We went to Cozumel with the intention of doing multiple days of diving.  The Airbnb apartment we stayed at had a photography book on the coffee table with beautiful land pictures from around the island.  We were flipping through the book on our first day and spotted pictures of baby turtles on the beach.  I immediately went into if-this-is-happening-this-time-of-year-I-need-to-see-it mode, and to my surprise it was.  We were on Cozumel from August 15th - 22nd and the approximate date the turtles start hatching this year was August 15th!

What I discovered is that there are at least two organizations on the small island of Cozumel that take responsibility of monitoring the turtle nests.  This includes walking the shores early in the morning to look for new nests, marking them, monitoring them and then helping the baby turtles make it to the sea.  They can tell if there is a new nest simply by discovering turtle tracks on the sand up to an area that looks like it has been dug up and then filled back in.  Once a nest is discovered, a small area is roped off and a marker is placed in the sand indicating the type of turtle and approximate hatch date.  The type of turtle can be determined by the way the nest has been left.  For instance, a nest that has been left in a deep hole a good distance away from the water is a green sea turtle, whereas the loggerheads leave their nests shallow and closer to the sea.

We paid a donation to volunteer with FP&M, a nonprofit foundation dedicated to cultural and social programs that benefit the Cozumel community.  They have a Sea Turtle Protection Program where they allow volunteers to go with one of their marine biologists to liberate the baby turtles.  In general, I am not a fan of mankind interfering with wildlife.  I think that nature should take its course and the circle of life should happen as intended.  However, I also believe that it is OK for mankind to interfere sometimes, especially when it is because of our behavior that a species is in danger.  It is believed that the origin of the sea turtle goes back to the time of the Late Jurassic period, over 100 million years ago.  Back then, the little guys didn't need to worry about kids digging them up while building a sandcastle.  That's one reason it's important to mark where the nests are.  I suppose the turtles had different predators back then, dinosaurs.  I can't speak to how that affected them but I know that today the turtles have to worry about introduced species like feral cats and dogs and rats.  That's why we intervene with the post-hatch process, helping the turtles get to the sea without being dug or scooped up and then eaten.  We shouldn't deprive the native predators (opossum, mice etc.) of their food source but with hundreds of nests around, I'm told that there is still plenty of food for them.  

We met in town at 5PM and after about a 20 minute drive arrived in Punta Sur which is an area on the Southeast coast of Cozumel.  Our biologist took us there because she believed that we'd find a nest that was ready for liberation.  She warned us that there was no guarantee we'd see baby turtles at all that night, but she was very hopeful.  We arrived at a loggerhead nest and she proceeded to put a long metal pole very gently into the sand.  She explained that this special instrument is used to see if there are eggs, or hatched turtles.  To my surprise, she started digging in the sand right away and suddenly we were looking at a baby turtle.  What?!  Just like that we found turtles waiting for our help?!  She showed us how to gently manipulate the sand to find turtles.  Jake liberated the first baby and it was one of the most magical moments I have ever witnessed.

Jake with the first liberated loggerhead baby turtle

My face says it all

The newly hatched turtles were much smaller than I expected them to be!  I thought that their shell would be soft and fragile but it wasn't, it was already firm.  They had so much energy!  Their four little legs were moving so rapidly it was alarming.  One by one we removed 67 turtles from the nest.  We also found three fully developed turtles who were no longer alive and several unfertilized eggs.  After we took them out of the nest, we did not immediately release them into the ocean.  We placed them in a styrofoam coolers so that we could transport them to another beach for release.  The biologist said it was because there was too much seaweed in the water where we were, blocking the path for them to swim to sea.  She also said that there were too many frigate birds around.  I felt like now we were intervening a bit too much bringing them somewhere else, but what do I know?  I'm not the marine biologist.  After less than a ten minute drive it was time to wish the turtles luck and let them find their way into the sea.  We gently took them out of the cooler and placed them on the sand about 20 feet away from the edge of the water.  That they have this instinct to go to the sea is absolutely amazing.  Mama turtle isn't around to show them the way, they just know.

Last year, over 18,000 turtles were released off the shores of Cozumel.  We were told that only 1 out of 1,000 turtles will make it to adulthood.  We may have given them a helping hand against the raccoons and vultures, but once they are out in the sea they are on their own.

Uncovering the baby turtles from the sand, having them in my hand and seeing them waddle into the ocean are memories that will be forever etched in my soul.  It brings tears to my eyes reliving the moments as I type this.  I don't know why it was so special to me but tears of happiness were shed multiple times that night.  It's something I'd like to do a dozen more times and in the future share it with loved ones.  Experiencing this again is something I'd plan a vacation around.  It's hard to find the words to convey the happiness that this experience brought me.

~ Jesslyn

Happiness

Up close and personal

You can do it buddy!

Under the Mexican Sun... Finally

After being at high elevation in South America in the Winter, we were so looking forward to some warm, sunny weather.  We figured Mexico in August might do the trick.

On our way to Mexico, we took a redeye flight from Quito, Ecuador with a layover in Atlanta.  This was the first time we were on U.S. soil in over a year.  But we told ourselves that we aren’t really in the U.S. if we don’t leave the international terminal of the airport.  We won’t go through immigration and customs, right?  Wrong.  Atlanta is not set up as an international hub, so even if you just have a layover there, and don’t plan to stay in the U.S., you still have to go through immigration and customs.  Both Jesslyn and I asked several different airport employees how to stay in the international terminal without having to wait in the ridiculous line.  The employees didn’t even understand our question, not realizing how silly and inefficient it is.  What do people from other countries do that don’t have a U.S. visa?  Perhaps Delta doesn’t sell that route to non-Americans.  They didn’t stamp our passports, which is good since that wouldn't have left any room for the stamp in Mexico.

We arrived in Atlanta early in the morning of the same day Delta’s computer system went down.  This was the system responsible for flight plans, so they can’t fly without it.  In the end, our flight was only delayed by four hours, so not too bad.  The worst part was that while we were waiting, they told us that there was no pilot, and they had absolutely no idea when we would get one.  Finally, a pilot showed up, but our excitement was short lived because we were then told we didn’t have a co-pilot and, once again, they had no idea when one would show up.  I give the crew a lot of credit however, because they were very upbeat and positive the entire time.  While traveling in other parts of the world, we were so annoyed at the lack of communication from bus drivers and tour guides.  The Delta crew, on the other hand, were very communicative, but it was a little humorous when they would get on the intercom and tell us that they have no new information since the last announcement, which was, "we don’t know when we are taking off".  I haven’t heard someone use so many words before to say “I still don’t know”.

While on the plane from Atlanta to Mexico, I started to feel a sore throat.  I hoped my throat was just irritated from the cold, air-conditioned air.  Unfortunately, that wasn’t the case.  I came down with a full blown cold that kept the mucus flowing for a week, and now, more than two weeks later, I still have a little bit of a cough trying to get the last remnants out of my lungs.  The same thing happened to me when we went to the beach in Vietnam last year.  How can it be that when we travel from a cold place to a hot, tropical place, I catch a cold?  In Vietnam, someone told me it is from the air conditioning.  I didn’t believe it at the time, but I am starting to wonder otherwise.  In the ATL airport, the AC was blasting.  I was freezing cold even in jeans.  I would have put on a sweater if I had one in my carry on.  I figured I wouldn't be needing it, so I packed in my suitcase.  Colds come from viruses, not AC, however, I do believe that AC creates conditions that make you more susceptible to catch a cold.  While there have not been any scientific studies to prove that claim, there are studies that do provide some evidence, according to this NY Times article.  I have never been a huge fan of AC; I hate having to take a parka to the grocery store or movie theater when it is 90 degrees outside.  Now I just prefer to sweat, than to freeze, and get sick.  To make it worse, Jesslyn ended up getting it too.  Sorry for the digression, moving on...

I didn’t know what Quintana Roo was before this trip.  I would have thought it was in Australia.  It turns out it is a state in Mexico that covers eastern coast of the Yucatan Peninsula, that big piece of land that juts upward to help form the Gulf of Mexico, opposite Florida on the other side.  You are certainly familiar with some of the places in it, like Cozumel, Playa del Carmen, and Cancun where we spent our first three nights.  I know that doesn’t sound like a place that would appeal to us, and it didn’t at first, but we did it for two reasons: to swim with whale sharks and to visit the famous Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza, a UNESCO World Heritage site.  The Mayan ruins were impressive and interesting when we weren’t burning in the sun and we loved learning about the great Mayan civilization.  However, we think the overall tour could be improved.  

The whale sharks on the other hand were in-freaking-credible.  Thousands of whale sharks congregate in this area this time of year to feed on the abundant plankton.  These creatures are the largest living vertebrate that is not a mammal, with the largest officially on record of over 40 feet long and 47,000 pounds.  We got in a fast speed boat and motored for about an hour and a half off shore.  There were dozens of other boats already there, but spread out over a very large area.  There were whale sharks everywhere we looked and the captain of our boat estimated there were about 400 of them.  Our boat only had ten people on it, and two guides.  The captain maneuvered the boat in the path of some sharks, then yelled, “jump” when it was in position.  A pair of us would get in the water with one of the guides at a time.  As soon as we oriented ourselves in the water, there would be a huge animal right next to us.  We would then swim along side with mask, snorkel, and fins for as long as we could.  Sometimes, they dove down so we couldn’t follow, other times, we just tired out and couldn’t keep swimming that fast.  They don’t look like they are swimming fast, and I am sure it isn’t fast for them.  They were so chill, not seeming to mind the boats or the people at all.  They just gracefully glided through the water with mouths open inhaling the plankton.  It was incredible to be so close to such large animals in the water, an experience I will never forget.  We passed on paying $35 for the copies of GoPro pictures and video the guides took.  In retrospect, we probably should have gotten them, but we didn’t have a chance to see them beforehand, so didn’t think it was a good idea.  I also get annoyed when you pay a lot of money for an activity, then they charge you a lot more money for something that should be included.  I do wonder if public swimming with whale sharks is a good thing or not.  I noticed a lot of the animals had large scars on their dorsal fins, from what looked like boat propellers.  I also wonder how good it is for the animals to be feeding with all the boats and swimmers around, with the slick of gasoline and sunscreen in the water.  The positive side to this activity is that it brings awareness to the creatures.  It educates people, and makes them care a bit more for the animal they got to see up close and in person.  I hope the money spent on the activity goes to helping protect them.  There have been other occasions on this trip where we have had the same concern.  It is a tough question, and the answer isn’t always clear.

After Cancun, we took a short ferry ride for a four day stay on the small island called Isla Mujeres.  We loved it there.  It was very quiet, without a whole lot to do other than chill at the beach.  The town is very small, and walkable.  We stayed at a cheap hotel, just a ten minute walk from a beautiful beach, surrounded by local restaurants and bars.  There are no McDonalds, nor Hard Rock Cafes, nor even a Señor Frogs.  Compared to the Vegas-like insanity of Cancun, this place was a peaceful oasis.  One day, we rented a golf cart to explore the island, which only takes about an hour even with the 20 mph top speed.  It seemed to rain every day, but only for a short time, except for one time when it rained hard for most of the day.  The island is very flat, which makes water drainage a problem.  The street outside our hotel turned into a knee-deep river for a couple of hours.  If you ever need an easy and cheap getaway at the beach, check out Isla Mujeres.

A panoramic view of Playa Norte on Isla Mujeres.  The beach isn't really curved, it is just the effect from the iPhone.

 

Looking out from our balcony in downtown Isla Mujeres.  This is what a day of rain will do.

Next stop, Cozumel.  Cozumel doesn’t have the night life of Cancun, but it does have a Hard Rock Cafe, Hooters, and Margaritaville.  There are always cruise ships docked, at most three when we were there, but in the high season, there are seven on most days, each with about 3500 passengers.  It is kind of a strange place, to have the population fluctuate by 24,000 people from day to night.  Since it was low season in a place built for such a large capacity, the place felt deserted most of the time.  We stayed a few blocks away from the main tourist area in a super cheap, but cute villa we found through Airbnb.  There aren’t really great beaches on Cozumel, and similar to Cancun, not a place we would typically go.  But we did for one reason: the scuba diving.  When I first learned to dive as a kid, I subscribed to some dive magazines, and I remember all the photos in there of Cozumel.  I wasn’t disappointed, it looks just like the pictures.  We did six dives over three days.  We saw turtles, nurse sharks, moray eels, barracuda, and loads of tropical reef fish.  What made this reef different from others we have dove is that there are many “swim throughs”,  which are natural holes in the structure big enough for a diver to fit through.  There is also quite a bit of current so we did a lot of drift diving.  It allows you to conserve your air, while covering a lot of ground.  We dove with JP and Carlos of Scuba Life, who were fantastic, and had a great (and fast) boat and nice rental gear.

Mexico has been fantastic so far, and we are looking forward to enjoying more if it now that we are getting over our colds.  Now we are off to Tulum, then Playa del Carmen.  Stay tuned.

 - Jake

Getting ready to jump in the water in Cozumel.

I really need to do some squats.

Volunteering in the Amazon

It's weird to pay $400 to volunteer for a week at a place that doesn't appear to actually need volunteers, right?  Maybe I just have a bad attitude.  At breakfast this morning, I told Jake that I really didn’t like this blog post, because I don’t like how negative it is.  He said that he likes to approach a negative post with a sense of humor, to which I replied, “I don’t have a sense of humor”.  So take it for what it’s worth - below is about our experience volunteering in the Amazon.

When we researched places at which to volunteer we found that the common theme was that you had to pay to volunteer.  It seemed kind of odd to us, we had expected that organizations would either a) want your money or b) want your time, but not both.  Some places in Galapagos were over $1,000 a week per person to volunteer!  Jake discovered an animal refuge center in Ecuador that sounded like a good spot to volunteer and we signed up through a website called Ecuador Eco Volunteer.  We were told that we needed to bring all of our own groceries and water, we'd be rooming with other volunteers and there would be no internet (not a surprise as we were headed into the Amazon).  We'd have electricity in the jungle this time though so that sounded like a nice perk after our time in the Amazon in Bolivia.  We took a local bus to Puyo where we were to be picked up.  We were a bit apprehensive about finding our ride with such little coordination, but we were happy when the owner of the refuge center, Medardo, found us.  It wasn't hard for him as there were hardly any gringos at this tiny bus station in the middle of nowhere.  We picked up two more volunteers from the other side of town and were surprised that they were fellow New Yorkers.  I know, we aren’t really New Yorkers but I loved our time in Brooklyn so much that it is a part of me is now, and will be forever.  Don’t worry Dad, I’m still a Patriots and Red Sox fan.  Anyway, the other volunteers were Demian and Griffin, a father and son spending three weeks together in Ecuador.  Demian shared with us that he plans on doing a special trip with each of this three kids when they turn 13.  It’s a (wonderful) way to experience another part of the world, and other cultures with them.  Since Griffin loves animals they chose Ecuador including this experience in the Amazon as well as Galapagos.  Griffin was a really cool kid that provided a lot of humor and interesting points of view during the week.  In some ways he reminded me of my brother who I miss terribly.  Anyway, our next stop was the grocery store where we shopped for our food for the week.  It’s kind of hard to do that when you know nothing about the kitchen to which you’ll be arriving, but we made our best effort.  When we finally arrived at the refuge center, it reminded me of a building at a summer camp in New England.  We were surprised to have our own room, complete with a mosquito net over the bed and not surprised, but disappointed with the lack of hot water.  We were also disappointed that the communal kitchen didn't have anything left over from previous volunteers:  no butter, sugar, cooking oil, the kinds of things that help make a week of cooking a bit easier, just some creepy crawlers lurking around.  The shower reminded me of what you might see in a fraternity - a shower curtain you do everything not to touch because you are afraid you might catch a disease from the molding plastic.  Another volunteer had already arrived, Valerian, a teacher from France on a eight month “Music Backpacking Tour”.  He is traveling with a digital audio recorder hoping to meet people in various countries to share and record music together.  He had just come from two weeks living with an Ecuadorian tribe where he recorded their music for the first time ever.  He sang songs for us in Spanish, Quechua, French and Russian.  Impressive guy.

When we arrived I expected that there would be some sort of briefing where we learned about the mission of the animal refuge, its animals and the expectations for the week.  Makes sense, right?  That didn’t happen, in fact, the entire week passed without us ever learning details about the center.  It was only after we left that I looked it up on a website I had seen referred to on a sign.  Ok, so shame on me for not asking while we were there - definitely - but I have two reasons.  The first was the language barrier, the woman we worked with daily, Lucero, was super sweet and spoke a little English, but not very much.  The second, and the real reason was because I had a bad attitude and was annoyed to be there given they clearly didn’t need our help, just our money.  I guess there is a third reason, we didn’t really have down time together with the couple who manage the center, so limited opportunity to interact on that topic.  It would have been nice if they had briefed us, or at least had information around the building that we could have read during the massive amount of downtime we had.  However, with our without a bad attitude, language barrier or not, I should have asked.  Lesson learned.

You are probably wondering about the animals, so let me explain.  There are two parrots (a scarlet macaw and a green parrot) that live outside of the volunteer sleeping quarters on the porches.  They don't appear to be able to fly and navigate around with the use of their two feet and their beak operating as a third foot.  In the area, there is a troop of 30 squirrel monkeys and another troop of 13 tamarind monkeys.  I had never heard of tamarind monkeys before and think that they are a much cooler animal partly because they are much more chill than the squirrel monkeys.  The squirrel monkeys are absolutely crazy.  Our lodging had a metal roof that the squirrel monkeys love to play on, sometimes at night which made it hard to sleep.  If both sets of monkeys are around, the squirrel monkeys dominate the area and the tamarind monkeys can't be fed.  Apparently where we were is at the edge of the Amazon and during some months there is not enough fruit in that part of the jungle for the monkeys to be sustained, that's why the center feeds them yellow plantains.  We were told that sometimes the monkeys aren't around because they are further in the jungle and the time for which they are away from the center increases and increases until eventually they will live far into the jungle.  These two kinds of monkeys are small and we broke off pieces of plantains to throw to them, or the impatient squirrel monkeys would just jump on top of you to get it.  I didn’t care for that and shrieked when they jumped on me.  The rest of the group didn’t seem to mind as much.  On two occasions during the week we also saw woolly monkeys.  These guys are significantly bigger, hang out in smaller groups (3-4) and stay way up in the tree tops.  They would scamper down the tree trunks using their tail as an extra leg, grab a full plantain, and then scamper back up to eat it.  We were told that the woolly monkeys don’t go by the refuge center often so it was special to see them.

The two parrots at the animal refuge.  The red one humored us daily with saying, "Hola"!

The squirrel monkeys looking for more food from Demian.

My face says it all.

Jake handling it a bit better than me.

A woolly a monkey looking for lunch.

A baby tamarind monkey.

The rest of the animals we interacted with at the center were caged or fenced in.  Two cages had a male and female agouti, another cage had one paca, and the last cage had three baby turtles.  Another fenced in area had 13 tortoises.  Oh, there was also a swamp with several turtles and three caimans.  Our daily duties consisted of feeding the animals twice a day, and maintenance around the jungle.  Most of the animals eat a small combination of green and yellow plantains, maize, yucca and sometimes papaya. The tortoises eat leaves, the turtles eat banana peels, and one day we fed the caimans raw chicken.  Agouti and pacas are part of the rodent family, and can be up to 8 and 13 lbs respectively.  They are both similar to the guinea pig.  Not necessarily the type of guinea pigs used as pets in the U.S. but more similar to the kind eaten as a delicacy known as "cuy" in Ecuador.  On our last day in Ecuador Jake tried cuy for lunch and the sight of it alone kind of grossed me out.  We were told that the agouti are very territorial and therefore can't be released back into the wild because they won't be accepted by the wild agouti.  The offspring of the captive agouti can however be released into the wild as there is no problem with their acceptance, so that's nice.  How did all of these animals end up at the refuge center?  Unfortunately, I don’t know.  That one I tried asking but didn’t really get an answer I understood.

Jake enjoying his guinea pig lunch.

Cuy on the grill

Various manmade walkways connected the areas with animals and we spent our time weeding, digging trenches for the rainwater to drain, and replacing stairs. I don't understand why the center accepts volunteers as there is not much they need help with.  Yes, I feel like we made a difference with the little we did, as it would have taken Lucero a very long time to improve the walkway without us.  However, we all felt like we could have done so much more, if there had been anything to do.  We asked many times for more work, but it just wasn’t there.  Most of the time I was frustrated and/or absolutely bored out of my mind as there was much more downtime than I had expected there to be.  I hate downtime.  There was nowhere comfortable to sit and my back hurt every second that I was not lying down.  I guess they really just want the cash?  I don't know.  I said as much to another volunteer, and he reminded me that often times places don't "need" volunteers, but having them allows extra projects to be completed and/or gives the usual workers time to focus on other things themselves.  Either way, I just really, really wish that they had more for us to do.  And if you don't, at least have somewhere comfortable for us to sit.  I did read a wonderful historical fiction book that my friend Mo had recommended which is called "Fall of Marigolds".  It takes place in NYC in both 1911 and 2011 and focuses on two tragic and slightly intertwined stories, one related to the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire and the other related to 9/11.  It was an excellent book and I highly recommend it.

The married couple that own the refuge center were very nice and always smiling.  We also had great co-volunteers and good thing they were interesting people, because we had a lot of time to entertain ourselves.  One day we went swimming in a nearby river while nearby one group of locals were doing laundry and another group was taking logs out of the river.  Another positive was that because we were at a higher altitude and not as deep into the jungle as we were in Bolivia, it was cooler and there were far fewer mosquitoes.  

During the week, Jake seemed to have a better attitude than I did.  He thoroughly enjoyed digging trenches and carrying big stones to improve the walkways.  So, I suggested to him that he also write a post about volunteering as I thought it might share a more positive outlook on our experience.  However, when his response to that was, “The overall experience was a colossal disappointment.  We made no difference, we took care of five giant rats!”, we decided that one post on the topic was enough.  We are glad that we had this experience and I believe it helps us grow as individuals.  I hope that the combination of our monetary donation and work to improve the walkways makes a larger impact than it feels like.  

~ Jesslyn

Quilotoa and Baños, Ecuador

Quilotoa

After leaving Cotopaxi, Mo, Jesslyn, and I continued our journey south within Ecuador.  We stopped in the town of Latacunga for the sole purpose of hiking around the nearby Laguna Quilotoa.  The town of Latacunga itself is nice, but nothing special.  It seems to be a pretty typical South American town, with the requisite plazas, churches, and Spanish colonial architecture.  Street vendors sell everything from socks, to fruit, to pieces of cake, and we even saw a couple of goats for sale on the sidewalk.  We ate chugchucaras, the typical dish for this city.  It has chunks of fried pork, boiled hominy, toasted corn, popcorn, mini cheese empanadas, plantain chips, and a huge piece of pork rind.  It sounds better than it actually was.  The highlight of the town was the hotel we stayed at.  It wasn’t all that fancy, but the staff were incredibly friendly and helpful.  The owner even drove us to the bus station early in the morning and showed us which bus we needed to get on to get to Laguna Quilotoa.

Laguna Quilotoa is an 800 foot deep, two mile wide lake in the crater of a volcano, which formed after the last eruption only 800 years ago.  This was one of my favorite hikes ever.  That’s a big statement, but the explanation is simple.  The entire hike is on the ridge of the volcano, therefore, you have near-360 degree views the entire time.  Most of the hiking that I have done involves hiking to the peak of a mountain, and hopefully being rewarded with a view from the top.  However, bad weather is common at the summit, limiting your time to enjoy it, and very often there is no view because it is socked in by clouds.  It was pretty windy at Quilotoa at times, but luckily it was a very clear day.  It was a difficult hike; we sucked wind as we climbed up and down the contour of the ridge in the high altitude (our highest point was 12,800 feet).  Toward the end of the five hour hike we were treated to the sight of some baby pigs foraging in the dirt, and some children tending a flock of sheep right on the edge of a very high, very shear cliff.  

Look closely, there is a sheep hanging off the edge.

Mo and Jesslyn

These guys have a nice view.

Baños
We said goodbye to Mo in Latacunga as she headed back to Quito for her flight home, and we set off for Baños.  No, not the bathroom, the town.  Baños actually means “bath” literally, but just like we in the US say “bathroom” for the room with the toilet (even if there is no bath), in Spanish the “bath” is also the room with the toilet.  I am sure there have been many jokes at this town’s expense already, so I will move on.  Baños is considered the adventure capital of Ecuador.  It doesn’t quite live up to other adventure towns such as Queenstown, New Zealand, but there are a number of adrenaline pumping things to do, the most popular of which is zip lining over the huge gorge.  We thought that canyoning would be more fun, so we signed up not knowing exactly what that meant.  In town we put on our wetsuits and hopped in a van for a 30 minute ride, after which we donned harnesses, helmets, and life jackets.  After a quick briefing on how to rappel we were doing just that down the side of a cliff next to a raging waterfall spitting in our faces.  About 10 feet away from the bottom, we pushed off the rock and let go of the rope and plunged in the chilly water on our backs.  As we traveled along the canyon, we jumped or rappelled down.  In one place, we jumped about 25 feet in to a pool below.  Jesslyn was not a big fan of this one, and required a bit of coaxing to do it.  There were a lot more smaller jumps, on which I very ungracefully executed front flips.  The first time, I heard the gasps as those looking on thought I wasn’t going to make it all the way around and land on my head.  The subsequent jumps garnered only chuckles by Jesslyn as she got a kick out of how un-gymnast-like I am.  Anyway, canyoning was an absolute blast.  

We also checked out one of the hot baths for which the town is named.  The baths are supplied with hot water from the 16,400 foot Tungurahua volcano that towers over the town.  The many signs indicating evacuation routes are a reminder that this is an active volcano which last erupted in 2014.  Oh yeah, the baths...  Um, well, we showed up and opted not to shell out the $3 to go in.  It was more like a public pool with loads of splashing kids, not exactly the relaxing spa experience we had imagined.  We also visited a huge waterfall near town and did a long hike in the countryside surrounding the area.  Baños was a good short stopover on our way to volunteering at an animal refuge in the jungle.  We’ll tell you all about that next time.

 ~ Jake

Me almost down one of the cliffs.

Look at that smile.

 

 

Quito and Cotopaxi, Ecuador

Wow, what a few days we just had; hiking, biking, and horses.  We started in Quito, Ecuador, then headed south to Cotopaxi National Park.  What makes it even better is that we have been so looking forward to relaxing on the beach in Mexico that we sort of overlooked this part of the trip, and I totally underestimated how awesome this part of Ecuador is.  Ecuador is amazing because for such a small country, it has greatly diverse geography.  We already wrote about the Galapagos Islands, and in addition to the coastal areas, there are huge Andean peaks and Amazon rain forests.  By the time we leave, we will have hit it all.

After the Galapagos, we spent two nights in Quito, the capital of Ecuador and the highest official capital in the world (if you read the La Paz blog, you may remember that it is higher, but only the functional, and not the official capital of Bolivia).  I didn't love Quito, for that matter, I haven't loved any of the big cities in South America.  Just like in all the other cities, we kept getting reminded how dangerous they are and not to carry valuables with you or to walk alone after dark.  We have seen our share of gaudy churches and Spanish colonial architecture at this point as well.  However, we did learn a few interesting things on our free walking tour of the city.  As its name implies, Ecuador lies on the equator, which means the temperature and weather doesn't change much throughout the year.  Also, things grow well due to all the sun, so it is no surprise that Ecuador is a large exporter of tropical fruit and flowers.  Being on the equator also gives a unique solar perspective, and adding the high peaks of the Andes, provides fixed landmarks against which to observe the sky.  This is one of the reasons why the prehistoric people of Ecuador were such great astronomers.

Ecuador didn't gain its independence from Spain directly.  About 1820, a country called Gran Colombia was able to break away from Spanish rule.  This country then split into Ecuador, Colombia, and Venezuela (as well as parts of other nearby nations) about 10 years later.  These three countries still have very similar flags to Gran Colombia with horizontal bands of yellow, blue, and red differing only by the coat of arms in the middle.

Very similar to an episode of recent Bolivian history, Ecuador had a president who allegedly stole millions of dollars from the country, then fled to...  guess where...  yes, the United States of America.  Jamil Mahuad was in office during a financial crisis and had to evacuate after a military coup in 2000.  What exactly went down, I don't know, but our tour guide seemed to think that Mahuad was personally responsible for the crisis by his theft.  He is still living freely in the U.S. while there is an arrest warrant for embezzlement in his home country.  Ironically, according to Wikipedia, he lectures in ethics at several universities in the U.S..  The best part of our time in Quito was that our good friend Maureen met up with us.  This was the third time we have seen her on our trip!

We were excited to leave the city and explore some of the less crowded parts of the country.  We hopped on a bus to Machachi for a $1.30 each and a 45 minute ride.  To our surprise, there is no bus station in Machachi, so the bus dropped us off on the side of the highway.  From here we were supposed to take a "pickup truck taxi" to the hotel, so we started to walk towards the town in hopes of finding one.  Luckily, it didn't take long to spot a truck that appeared to also be a taxi, so we asked for a ride to our hotel.  I hopped in the bed along with our bags while Mo and Jesslyn squeezed into the cab with the driver.  After a very rough (now I know why the taxis are 4WD pickup trucks) 30 minute ride through the beautiful countryside, we arrived at La Hacienda Mortiños, just outside the north gate of Cotopaxi National Park.  The park is home to a picturesque, perfectly conical, snow-capped volcano of the same name which is the second highest point in all of Ecuador at 19,347 feet.  Hiking the volcano is not allowed at the moment because of some supposed rumblings, and for the same reason much of the park is closed.  The owner of the hacienda said that the volcano hasn't actually been active, but the closure is instead due to political reasons.  Once again, who knows the true story?

Although much lower, another prominent peak in the park is the jagged and rocky Rumiñahui.  There is no snow on the peak, and doesn't require any technical experience nor gear, so we decided to make of go of it.  Even though it is not "technical", it is still difficult (for us anyway!), mostly due to the elevation.  The hike starts at 12,400 feet, and we attempted the south peak which tops out at 15,400 feet.  As the trail got steeper and steeper, we had to stop and catch our breath every 10 steps or so.  It also didn't help that the trail is not marked... at all.  So we ended up backtracking a couple of times when we realized we missed a turn.  Mo decided she had had enough part way through the hike and we agreed to meet up with her on our way back down.  As the trail turned into very steep, loose scree, we found ourselves scrambling with our arms and hands.  Then it started to rain, which quickly turned to sleet and snow causing the already loose footing to be slippery.  At that point, Jesslyn decided she had had enough.  I left my pack with Jesslyn and pushed on because the peak appeared to be only about another 10 minutes away.  Just before the summit, it turned into a bit of a rock climb, but luckily it wasn't too difficult.  I reached the very top, greeted by zero visibility and incredibly strong wind which sucked more than normal because the peak is just a sharp, jagged rock with very little room to stand.  The wind was a serious threat to knock me off my perch.  Needless to say, I didn't stick around very long before heading back down.  This was nothing like the rounded mountain tops of the Appalachians.

This view of Cotopaxi is from the property of the hacienda with our llama buddy posing in the foreground. 

Jesslyn posing in front of the peak of Ramiñahui.  I summited the southern peak to the left.

We started the next day with a three hour horseback ride, leaving right from the hacienda and making a giant loop inside the park.  This was my fourth time on a horse, and I love it.  While you have some control over the animal, they have a mind of their own and ultimately do what they want.  On the way out, my horse lagged behind requiring many kicks and clucks from me to get it to keep up with the others and I had to steer it since it didn't seem to want to follow.  However, on the way back, it led the pack, including our guide.  Since the horse knows where home is, I didn't have to steer much.  I kind of felt bad, like he didn't want to be out there.  I guess I wouldn't care to have 180 pounds on by back for three hours either.  The ride was incredible because of the scenery which was made better by the unusually clear skies.  We saw enormous condors for the first time ever, soaring high above as as the great Cotopaxi towered over us.  As we rode across the rocky landscape surrounded by mountains, I felt like a cowboy traipsing across Montana in the 1800's.  As wonderful as it was, three hours is more than enough time in a saddle for me.  That afternoon I set out for the park again, this time on a mountain bike.  Unfortunately, the weather turned on me, so it was a short two hour ride, but I was able to get a few pics of some of the wild horses in the park.

It was great to be out in the countryside of Ecuador, surrounded by stunning natural beauty.  I was also happy to get a lot of exercise and well as some R & R.  After just three short nights, we were off again.  Next stop Latacunga and the nearby Quilotoa crater lake.

 - Jake

Pretending to be cowboys.

These are horses on the property of the hacienda.

Galapagos Part Dos

We heard that visiting the Galapagos was expensive, but we were able to find reasonable airfare, and cheap accommodations (~$30 a night).  Sure the 10-night live-aboard dive boats were pricey, but we can always do some day trip dives.  So what is so expensive?  The answer is simple.  The islands are so spread out, the only way to see the vast majority of them is by multi-day cruises.  They are simply too far from the inhabited areas to be reached as a day trip.  Cruises range in longevity from five days to two weeks, with most of them being either five or eight days.  Even on a two week cruise, you won’t see the entire place, you need about three weeks to do that.  Since we are nearing the end of our trip, the finances are dwindling fast.  After talking with a few different tour companies and considering a few different boats and itineraries, we ended up booking the last four nights of an eight night cruise.  We had to make hard decisions about what we wanted to see, and found a boat that was going to hit those areas.

OK, before you get the wrong idea, I use the word “cruise” because that is the term they use here, and I couldn’t think of a better word.  But forget about the gargantuan Carnival cruise boats that lumber throughout the Caribbean.  All of the boats here are much smaller.  Ours, the Yolita II, has 16 guests, and a crew of 8.  It was spacious for the number of guests however, and we had a private ensuite cabin.  Also, forget about lounging on the sundeck sipping margaritas like you would do on a jumbo ship between Miami and Nassau.  There are no roulette tables nor a midnight buffet.  No one stayed up past 10pm because of our early mornings and very active days.  OK, you get the point.  All this is good because I am not a big fan those floating cities on which you eat and drink yourself sick.

Our boat basically circumnavigated the largest island of Isabella, also making stops at Fernandina, Santiago, and Rabida.  The daily routine went something like this...  breakfast at 7ish, in the zodiac by 8am with wetsuits on and mask and fins in hand.  After snorkeling, back to the boat by 9:30, change out of your wetsuit and back into the zodiac by 10am to head to shore for land based exploring like a hiking up a volcano.  Lunch on the boat, usually followed by another snorkel, then another hike on land.  Then dinner around 7 back on the boat, and maybe drink or two after dinner while we socialized with the others.  In bed before 10pm.  That was the usual schedule, but because I was battling some sort of stomach ailment, I ended up skipping one snorkel, two breakfasts, and a lunch.  It is also probably why I was asleep before everyone else.

It seems like a lot, and it was, but that is the way it needs to be because there is so much to see, experience, and learn about.  While snorkeling, we saw sharks, more turtles than you can count, marine iguanas, flightless cormorants, sting rays, eagle rays, grouper, seals, sea lions, thousands of schooling sardines, and more tropical fish than I care to bore you with.  In addition, on land we also saw tortoises, land iguanas, and many types of birds, including blue footed boobies, flightless cormorants, penguins, and flamingos.  That’s right, flamingos and penguins on the same island.  The Galapagos penguin is the only penguin found in the northern hemisphere (the archipelago straddles the equator).  While on land, our expert guide, Washington, explained details about all of these animals.  He led each of our snorkeling and hiking excursions and kept us engaged with his passion, humor, and most of all his in depth knowledge of the islands’ history, geography, flora, and fauna.  Here is some of that fun stuff...

The Galapagos are incredible because they are such relatively young volcanic islands.  The oldest of the islands are now underwater as they drift on the Nazca plate eastward, and downward into the ocean.  Volcanic eruptions continue to add land mass to some of the islands and are sure to produce new islands in the future.  As some of the islands are disappearing under the ocean, some continue to rise.  We walked on a trail covered with shells and huge coral remains one kilometer from the shore.  Just 50 years ago that area was underwater, but the rest of the movement tends to happen much slower, at about an inch or two per year.  The animals that ended up here at first did so by swimming, flying, or floating on driftwood.  That is no easy feat since it is 560 miles to the mainland.  The animals that did end up here had to adapt because it is so different from where they came.  The newer islands have a harsh landscape without much vegetation.  As a result, many of the animals here have evolved into unique species.  There are huge numbers of endemic species in the Galapagos, meaning that they are found nowhere else in the world.  In fact, most of the islands have species that only exist on that one island, and on none of the others.  Perhaps the most interesting adaptation is that of the marine iguanas.  When they arrived on the island, they were land based lizards.  There wasn’t enough vegetation on land, and they were able to adapt so that they can hold their breath, swim to the bottom, and eat the from the sea floor.  They even have glands that help to remove salt from their system which they expel by blowing it out their nose.  What they lack in good looks, they make up for in adaptability.  While the iguanas appear to be extremely abundant, we were reminded how tough survival can be by the hundreds of skeletons resulting from a shortage of the algae this past season on which they subsist. 

Marine iguanas have a face only a mother could love.

The remains littering the rocks and sand are a reminder of the harsh conditions.

 

There are endemic cormorants which are the only species of cormorants in the world who can’t fly.  While blue footed boobies aren’t endemic, they are icons of the islands. These guys look like cartoon characters, and don’t seem to fear humans at all, like many of the other animals here.  

A nesting flightless cormorant.

Blue footed boobies!

I know there are seals and sea lions all over the world, but I have to say they are pretty much my favorite animal (after the liger for you Napoleon Dynamite fans).  Scuba diving with gray seals off the coast of Maine as a teenager is one of my favorite memories.  I came close to that experience again snorkeling here.  There was a pup fur seal that swam with us for ages.  While he kept out of reach, he gracefully darted all around us, twisting and turning in the water, under and around us.  He was incredibly cute with enormous eyes.  The sea lions typically kept their distance underwater, but one particular guy didn’t seem to mind me at all.  I was swimming along side him as he slowly slid along in a straight line, allowing me to keep up.  He was eyeballing me the whole time.  He got very close at one point, then wanted to know what I tasted like.  He opened his mouth wide, showing his enormous teeth, and started to put his mouth around my leg.  He did this very slowly, which leads me to believe he was just curious, not aggressive.  Also, it gave me enough time to freak out and push him away before I had marks to prove it.  That was the end of our time together.

One of my sea lion buddies with the Yolita II in the background.

Sally Lightfoot crabs can be found just about everywhere on the rocks along shore.

Sea turtles are common in many parts of the world as well, but I have never seen so many as I did snorkeling in the Galapagos.  These are interesting creatures to observe and also don’t seem to mind people.  They are an endangered species for a few reasons.  In the Galapagos, introduced species such as rats, cats, and dogs eat their eggs.  But also, the young turtles return to the same beach where they were born 5 years later to have offspring of their own.  If that beach is no longer there, it is believed they don’t reproduce.  A peculiar fact is that after laying the eggs, the temperature of the eggs determines which gender that individual will be.  So, often the eggs in the middle are warmer and tend to end up as female.

We really enjoyed the cruise, and wished we had the funds to do it for longer.  The other passengers on our boat were all fantastic.  There was only one other American couple, Connie and Jerry, and it turns out we have only one degree of separation.  They are good friends with and former neighbors of the family of my very good friend, college roommate, and fraternity brother from RPI, Justin.  In fact, they and I were all at his wedding.   

Apart from my sickness, there was another downer on the boat trip.  On the last night, half of the cabins realized that there was cash missing from their rooms.  The thief took some of the cash, but not all, apparently hoping that it wouldn’t be noticed.  However, a few of the victims meticulously record the amount of cash they have at any given time, so therefore know without a doubt when some is missing.  Jesslyn and I are not that careful with our accounting, but a mental check accounted for what we had and spent within a few bucks.  The silver lining is that the boat paid each person the amount of money they reported to have lost.  I don’t know how they dealt with that situation internally, but it was awesome that they paid the money back.  In this day of Trip Advisor and online ratings, I guess they couldn’t have sustained the terrible reviews.  The happy mood was restored in time for the slide show of all the pics and videos that our guide Washington had taken during the trip.  

I just had to include more birds!  I loved watching the numerous pelicans just hanging out and dive bombing for fish.

There are many frigate birds.  These guys can stay in the air for weeks at a time.

Our cruise was awesome, but we still hadn’t been scuba diving yet.  So, after the end of the cruise, we booked a day trip to Gordon Rocks, a dive site known to be a good place to see hammerhead sharks.  We were not disappointed.  We probably saw about 30 of them, and pretty close too.  These are the largest sharks I have ever seen underwater, not to mention they are so unique looking.  We also saw a large Galapagos shark up close.  At this point, I have seen enough sharks that I don’t really have a fear of them while diving.  Maybe that isn’t such a good thing, but I love to see the sleek graceful animals gliding through the water.  Jesslyn just recently said to me, “I want to see them eat something.”.  I was thinking the exact same thing.  The dive at Gordon Rocks has some strong currents, so only experienced divers are allowed.  Jesslyn did awesome, I guess she is officially an experienced diver now!

 - Jake

 

Video courtesy of our fabulous guide, Washington Paredes.

Our First 36 Hours in Galapagos

I can’t believe that we are in Galapagos!  For a long time we had eliminated this magical place from our itinerary because of the high cost.  Originally we were looking to do a 10 day dive liveaboard, but at $10,000 for the two of us, we just couldn’t swing it.  I’m so happy that we did more research and made the decision to do a more budget friendly trip to the archipelago.  So far, it’s amazing.  After a three flight/21+ hour journey from Peru to get to Guayaquil, Ecuador, then two hours of sleep and an 8AM flight to Galapagos, here we are.  Despite our lack of sleep, when we landed we felt wide awake due to the anticipation and excitement!  Sharks, turtles, octopi, seals, sea lions, birds!  We couldn't wait to drop our bags off at the hotel and immediately start exploring.  The airport at which we landed, Baltra, is on a small barely inhabited island and when we exited, the landscape seemed quite barren.  The first impression is that Galapagos is not a pretty place, but that didn't come as a surprise as everything I've read reminds you not to go there expecting a tropical paradise.  However, it wasn't long after that when I spotted the vibrant blues of the water and the already huge smile on my face grew larger.  I always feel at home at the ocean, at peace.  It must have been all of those wonderful summer vacations spent at York Beach, Maine.

If you aren’t too familiar with Galapagos, here are a few small facts, our next post will share more:

- The archipelago is located 560 miles off of mainland Ecuador and consists of 13 major islands (each with an area of over 6 square miles), and 6 medium islands (each with an area between half and 6 square miles).
- Only five of the islands have residents
- Many of the islands can only be reached by a multi-day cruise and accessed with a National Park guide

We are starting our 12 nights here on Isla Santa Cruz, in the largest town of Galapagos, Puerto Ayora (~12,000 inhabitants as of the 2010 census).  In the wild, on our first day,  we saw:  lots of sea lions sleeping in the sun, dozens of Sally Lightfoot crabs, dozens of marine iguanas, and several kinds of Darwin finches, and that was all before dinner.

Some Sally Light Footed Crabs

Marine iguanas on the prowl

We also went to the Charles Darwin Research Center because we felt that we shouldn't leave Galapagos without seeing what it was all about.  It is a nonprofit organization that with the help of over 200 scientists and volunteers, focuses on research and conservation efforts for the islands.  When we arrived, it was closed for a two hour lunch break as seems to be the trend here, but to our surprise the grounds were still accessible.  We walked around and saw many Galapagos tortoises in captivity as well as land iguanas.  I couldn't believe how large both of these species are and it was great to finally see them.  However, I felt like we were cheating having just arrived and gone to a what felt like a "zoo" of sorts, but like I said, I thought we should pay a visit to the Research Center.  I hope that we see these turtles and iguanas in the wild too.  The Research Center plays a critical role in the breeding process for both the giant tortoises and land iguanas.  Without intervention, these two species could easily face extinction due to introduced predators like rats, cats, dogs, goats, and cows that like to feast on their eggs.

Once it got dark, we took a local's recommendation and headed down to the pier.  At night it is lit up which attracts a lot of marine life.  We saw a surprising amount of small, black tipped reef sharks, a sea turtle, a swimming sea lion, a sleeping sea lion, an eagle ray, and several pelicans.

Ok, so many it's not the best video, but look at all of those sharks!

After only a few days, I've taken to calling sea lions Galapagos pigeons.  While I haven't seen any actual pigeons, you see sea lions absolutely everywhere so it feels like they are taking their place.  They are usually sleeping on the sidewalk or on some structure close to the water.

Jake and his sea lion friend on the pier in Puerto Ayora on Isla Santa Cruz

A pelican and a sea lion hoping to get some fresh fish at the market on Isla Santa Cruz

Our second day on Isla Santa Cruz we walked about three miles to Tortuga Bay.  It's a surprisingly beautiful white sand beach but you can't swim there due to the rough seas and strong current.  They allow surfing but we enjoyed looking at the many marine iguanas instead.  Just past Tortuga Bay is another nice white sand beach that is nestled in a bay, Playa Mansa.  We brought snorkeling gear with us but the combination of freezing cold water and poor visibility didn't keep us in the water exploring for too long.  We then rented kayaks for an hour or so and in one of the mangrove coves we saw about 20 black tipped reef sharks below us.  My clumsy self was nervous being in such close proximity to sharks in such shallow water.  I managed to get out of the area without tipping my kayak and shortly after we followed around a few sea turtles and tried to catch up with a ray.  I'm not sure if the visibility is always so poor at Playa Mansa, but if you find yourself there, you may consider spending your money on renting a kayak vs. snorkeling gear.

The next day we moved on to Isla Isabela and did a five hour excursion via boat to Los Tunneles.  After an hour long journey from the port, our group of 10 walked on top of the lava rock with our guide.  Here is where we saw the blue footed boobies for the first time.  I was uncomfortable with how close our guide took us to them.  It was unbelievable that the birds, who were either sitting on eggs or protecting their young chicks did not appear to be phased by us.  They were fun to watch and reminded me of a Disney or Pixar movie - they really looked like cartoon characters.  Unlike our snorkeling experience the day before, the water here was incredibly clear.  When we walked around or slowly navigated in the boat, it was like we were in a giant aquarium watching sea turtles and parrotfish swim around us.  All of the wildlife in Galapagos seems super sized.

A blue footed boobie protecting its young

Cruising around Los Tuneles on Isla Isabela

The next part of the Tuneles tour was about an hour of snorkeling.  While we didn't see many fish, we snorkeled with an eagle ray, many turtles, golden rays, white tipped reef sharks, and a seahorse.  The seahorse was bigger than the one we saw in Thailand, but they are kind of boring to observe.  They are no doubt a really odd looking animal, but they pretty much just stay in one place and that's not too exciting to watch.  The sharks on the other hand were really cool and I've never been so close to them before.  First we were leaning on this underwater lava formation watching them swim out of cave.  Later, we returned to the cave and one by one, our guide held us down underwater, with our head in the cave as we looked at them for as long as we could hold our breath.  Ok, writing that down makes it sound like a crazy, stupid thing to do.  I almost didn't, but after another girl in our group came up for air saying that it wasn't scary and it was awesome, I decided I couldn't miss out.  I agree, it was really awesome.

Jake heading down into the cave to see the white tipped reef sharks

I don't think once will be enough for us for Galapagos.  We already know that we'd love to return someday after we saved and saved to do a big diving trip here.

~ Jesslyn

***********************
Sources:  Lonely Planet: Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands
https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Ayora

https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Islas_Gal%C3%A1pagos

 

Machu Picchu

When we decided to go on a trip around the world, we both agreed that we didn't want to go to places where one or the other of us had already been.  There were, however, the few exceptions of London, Istanbul, and Edinburgh.  We visited Lynn and Rob in London, Sarp and Tugce in Istanbul, and Edinburgh was where we flew in and out of in order to explore the rest of Scotland.  So, Machu Picchu, nor even Peru were on the list of destinations since Jake had been back in 2007 when he hiked the Inca trail with a group from grad school.  That changed when the cheapest way to get to Galapagos was via Cusco, Peru, the closest major town to Machu Picchu.  Due to time and budget constraints, we agreed not to do a multi-day hike into Machu Picchu but instead to do a day trip from Cusco.  I was really looking forward to seeing this amazing Inca structure as you can't read about South America and not see pictures of it.  We booked the tour with a company called Llamapath that our friend Mo had used for her four day hike to Machu Picchu last summer.  Despite being only 70 miles from Cusco, in order to pull off our visit in a day, it meant that we had to:

- get picked up by a car in Cusco at 3:40AM and drive two hours to the train station in Ollanta
- take a two hour train ride to the town of Agua Calientes/Machupicchu
- take a 30 minute bus ride up to Machu Picchu

All this before 9AM!  When we arrived in Ollanta at 5:30, the town was ready for us.  Many vendors lined the street selling all sorts of snacks, cakes, drinks, bug spray and of course souvenirs.  We found a spot to sit down and have a cup of coffee before it was time to board the train.  As we boarded I said to Jake, "you know, sometimes its fun to get up in the middle of the night!".  As the sun began to rise and more people boarded the train, I was reminded of how unique this experience we are on is.  We were surrounded by couples decades older than us who probably have kids away at college or off with families of their own, and kids that looked like they were in high school (which probably means they are in or just out of college).  Most of the time, I feel like there aren't many travelers that are our age.  Sometimes we meet people closer to our age, but they are never from the U.S.  Often, they didn't quit their jobs, but instead are between jobs.  Most travelers we meet are from Europe, Australia or New Zealand, and fixed-length contract work seems most common in those regions.  So these travelers have simply timed their long trips after a contract ends and before a new one starts, or before they find themselves a new one.  Thanks for reading my random digression about fellow travelers, now I'll get back to Machu Picchu.

The train ride itself was great.  It was a train only for passengers to Machu Picchu, and with tall and wide windows you could enjoy the various Peruvian terrain along the way.  We were surrounded by mountains, a river and quaint countryside.  When we arrived in Agua Calientes, our guide met us at the train station and accompanied us on the 30 minute bus ride up to Machu Picchu.  Then we enjoyed a two hour guided tour of Machu Picchu.  Well, it started out enjoyable.  When we arrived, it was raining, but it was more of a mist.  Walking in and seeing the incredible sight that is Machu Picchu, surrounded by many beautiful green Andes mountains, was breathtaking. 

Before the fog...

 

Luckily the clouds/fog weren't too bad when we first walked in so I could actually appreciate the sight.  The way it was built is incredible.  The Incas truly were masterful engineers.  There have been dozens of earthquakes in the region over the centuries and it is still standing.  The stones were cut so precisely and fit together so seamlessly that I bet you couldn't even fit a credit card in between them.  What did they have for tools?  How did they move the stones?  How did they cut them and make their work so perfect?  It really is incredible.  You could see some evidence of this architecture in Cusco as well, but unfortunately the Spanish destroyed most of it there.  That is, until they realized that the buildings they built weren't earthquake proof and the Inca structures were.  Then the Spanish started building on top of Incan foundations.

Incan stonework from the city of Cusco.

What is known about Machu Picchu is mostly based on speculation.  Its believed that the Incan structure was built during the height of the Inca empire which was in western South America during the 15th and 16th centuries.   Many archeologists believe that it was a royal estate for Inca emperors, others believe that it was not a residence of any kind but that it was religious site.  That theory is supported by its proximity to mountains and other geological features that the Incas worshiped.  No one knows why it was abandoned but its believed that the Spanish never found the site because its location is hidden away in the rocky Andes mountains.  There was simply no easy way to get there.  It was rediscovered in 1911, when Hiram Bingham, an American archeologist stumbled upon it.  According to history.com,

"In the summer of 1911 the American archaeologist Hiram Bingham arrived in Peru with a small team of explorers hoping to find Vilcabamba, the last Inca stronghold to fall to the Spanish. Traveling on foot and by mule, Bingham and his team made their way from Cuzco into the Urubamba Valley, where a local farmer told them of some ruins located at the top of a nearby mountain. The farmer called the mountain Machu Picchu, which translates to “old peak” in the native Quechua language. On July 24, after a tough climb to the mountain’s ridge in cold and drizzly weather, Bingham met a small group of peasants who showed him the rest of the way. Led by an 11-year-old boy, Bingham got his first glimpse of the intricate network of stone terraces marking the entrance to Machu Picchu."

It was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 and in 2007 it was designated as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.  It's estimated that around a million people visit each year.

By the end of our 2+ hour guided walk, the fog had rolled in masking almost the entire structure and the rain was torrential.  We were drenched.  We had rain coats with us, but since it was dry season and we hadn't actually expected rain we both had on jeans and while I had on my waterproof hiking boots, Jake had on his running sneakers.  We had planned to spend most of the day enjoying Machu Picchu and Jake was hoping to get some great photographs.  The weather was so bad, he never even took the camera out.  I was very sad for him.  Since there seemed to be no end in sight for the clouds or rain, we decided that our time at Machu Picchu was over and we'd wait out the 4+ hours at a restaurant in town.  Problem was, getting back into town was a 30 minute bus ride and the line to get on the bus was over two hours long.  There was no cover while you were in line for the bus, so as we stood there in the pouring rain waiting, I suggested that we walk back down to town instead.  We might as well pass the time with a walk instead of standing around aggravated in the cold rain.  Two Peruvian women joined us but due to their lack of English and our limited Spanish our conversation with them didn't last too long. After about an hour and a half of walking we were back in town and found a place to eat.  Our guide had suggested a restaurant and had described it as "safe", meaning that the food was safe to eat.  We walked in and realized it was out of our budget so opted for another choice.  What is the saying?  Hindsight is 20/20?  Oh how I wished we had listened to him.  That's what I was thinking when I was getting sick in the bathroom on the train back to Cusco.  I've had food poisoning once before in my life, and this time it was far, far worse.  Luckily I made it from the train back to our hostel with out any emergency situations but then I was up most of the night violently ill.  Stomach pains like I've never had before.  As a result, I spent our one full day in Cusco in bed instead of exploring what seemed like an awesome town.  I was also miserable during our 21+ hour day of travel to Galapagos the day after that, but luckily I felt better and better as that day went along.

While seeing Machu Picchu was memorable, it was one of the most miserable overall days of the trip.
 

~Jesslyn

Sources:
http://www.history.com/topics/machu-picchu
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/machu-picchu/621031

The fog rolls in.

The Amazon

As we were planning the South American part of our trip, we heard about this thing called the Amazon Rainforest.  It turns out that this forest is pretty important, and big too.  It is 2.1 million square miles, touches nine countries, makes up over half of the world’s rainforests, and has about 390 billion trees of 16,000 different species.  Well, that is if you believe Wikipedia.  We decided to check it out for ourselves.  We flew to Rurrenabaque, Bolivia which was our launching point for two different excursions.  The tiny town is on the Beni river, whose water eventually ends up in the Amazon River, thousands of miles away.  This is extraordinary since it is much closer to the Pacific coast.  However, the massive Andes act as the continental divide, so water has no choice but to head east to the Atlantic.

Our first excursion which was to an area called the “pampas”, which are flat lowlands, next to, but not covered by the rainforest.  I suspect that these areas are not forested because they are flooded with each rainy season.  The only way to get to these pampas is by boat on the network of small rivers.  After a hot, cramped, and bumpy two hour journey by car, we reached the boats.  Before we even got in the boat, we saw the famous Amazon River Dolphins (more commonly called "pink dolphins”) playing in the water.  That’s right, dolphins in the freshwater river, who never set foot in the ocean.  And they aren’t little either.  Adult males can grow to 400 pounds.  After loading the supplies on the boat, we set out with our guide, Antonio, and a nice couple from England, Guy and Sofia.  The boat was very long and narrow, with just enough room to sit two across, but there were seats for 8 passengers, plus a lot of gear.  It was powered by 15 HP outboard and expertly piloted by Antonio sitting in the rear.  The journey upstream took almost four hours as we took our time to watch, photograph, and learn about the abundant wildlife.  The first thing you notice are all the unique species of birds.  Cocoi Herons, darters, and hoatzins (we and the locals call them stinkbirds) were the most populous.  But we also saw egrets, toucans, tiger herons, Jabiru storks, vultures, caracaras, jacanas, yellow billed terns, macaws, paradise jacamars, and many, many more that I can’t identify.  

Second only to the birds in number were the caimans.  These close cousins to the alligator were everywhere.  We easily saw more than 100 of them over the course of our 3 days.  We mostly saw bespectacled caimans which are smaller and not generally considered a threat to humans, unless they are protecting their eggs.  However, we also saw black caimans which can grow to 16 feet long and have no problem making a meal of a fully grown adult homo sapien.  

We went searching for other reptiles, specifically anacondas.  For this we all got a pair of rubber boots (“wellies” if you are from the UK, and "gum boots" if you are from Australia) and a walking stick (or snake poking stick).  We walked through tall grass, shallow water, and mud on the hunt for the massive snakes.  Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately), we didn’t find any.  We did find a couple false cobras however.  These guys look like the venomous serpents of Africa and SE Asia, but they are not poisonous.  One of the guides attempted to handle one of them, but it was a bit too feisty, so we let it be.  I think that was better for everyone.  It wasn’t a particularly pleasant experience baking in the sun, laboring to pull your boot from the mud with every step, worrying about stepping on a snake, and trying to avoid water deep enough to go into the top of your boot.  

There was no shortage of mammals either.  We saw a sloths, squirrel monkeys, howler monkeys, and capybara (the world’s largest rodent), and of course, the pink dolphins.  One of the activities was swimming with the wild dolphins in the river.  Yes, the same river with the caiman and piranhas.  Oh, I forgot to mention there are piranhas.  I know because we caught about eight of them fishing for an hour (When I say “we”, I mean Jesslyn, Guy, and our guide.  I just fed them.).  We were assured it was safe to swim, so I jumped in.  We didn’t have masks or snorkels, which wouldn’t have done any good because the water was an opaque dark brown anyway.  It was cool, but the thought of no longer being at the top of the food chain was always in the back of my head.  We survived without a scratch, which was all I was really hoping for.

Camp was made up of several cabins, and we paid a little extra to have a private room and bathroom.  There were flush toilets, but no hot water.  There was electricity only after 6pm.  We slept in a comfortable bed under a mosquito net.  Meals were communal with a couple other groups.  The food was decent and plentiful.  There was not a lot of meat, but a lot of rice, potatoes, and fried dough.  The accommodations were pretty good considering everything that can’t be gathered from the jungle has to be brought in on small boats.  We really enjoyed our Pampas tour, especially because of all the wildlife.  I think I took over 500 pictures.

After one night back in town, we headed out for the three day jungle tour.  After a long boat ride up a wide, but shallow river, we hiked a few minutes into the jungle from shore to our camp.  This camp was just as rustic, but much more quaint.  A lot of thought and care went into making it blend into the environment, and was built mostly with materials gathered from the jungle.  We had a private accommodation again (well, semi-private, we shared the space with a bat).  Like all of the buildings, our room was built around a large tree trunk.  Everyone that worked for this tour company were indigenous people who grew up in the jungle.  Our guide, Jimmy, learned about the medicinal properties of the plants, how to hunt, and fish, and generally how to survive by his grandfather.  He wears a neckless with the teeth of the first wild boar he killed with a poisoned arrow at the age of nine.  His necklace helps to keep the bad spirits away.  

We did a lot of walking as Jimmy tried to impart a tiny bit of his knowledge on us.  We found a large vine, that when cut looks just like a piece of wood, but when held on end starts to trickle fresh, drinkable water. We chewed on some leaf that makes your entire mouth numb for about 10 minutes, which is used as local anesthesia.  We smelled the bark of the garlic tree, which smells just like some herb, but I couldn’t put a finger on it.  Not only is it used for cooking, it is rubbed all over one’s body before hunting to mask the human scent.  We saw the tree that excretes the poison used for the arrows.  We got our faces painted with the purple liquid that magically appears when certain green leaves are crushed and mixed with water.  We got temporary tattoos from liquid resulting from soaking a certain nut in water for about an hour.  The blue tattoos on the back of our wrists lasted a few weeks!  

We learned about the different animals that live in the jungle.  We didn’t see many (except for mosquitos), as they are very shy, but we did see many signs.  We saw fresh prints in the mud of jaguars, tapirs, and wild pigs.  We saw howler and cappuccino monkeys.  We saw green macaws and red macaws.  Most people are afraid of the jaguars, but I was more concerned with the pigs.  The previous day, we had asked if they are dangerous, and we got the same response we have heard so many times before...  “depends”.  Normally, they steer clear of people, and will run if they hear or smell you.  However, like most animals they defend their young with great zeal.  Not only can they be very aggressive, they have the advantage of numbers, traveling in groups of a couple hundred.  Jimmy told us of a time when he and his tour group had to climb trees to get away from the pigs after one of the young cried for help by clattering its teeth.  It was unfortunate for a couple of the tourists who chose trees infested with fire ants.  

We only slept at the main camp on the first night.  The second night, we trekked deeper into the jungle and slept on the ground under a tarp and mosquito net.  We didn’t have any luck fishing in the river, so we ate pasta for dinner, cooked over the camp fire.  After dinner we had a little ceremony for paacha mama, or mother earth.  Many Bolivians, especially the ones who live in rural areas have both Christian and native beliefs.  We had participated in a paacha mama ceremony previously in Sucre as well, which was a little more elaborate, as expected.  But they both involved an offering of cigarettes and alcohol.  Evidently, mother earth has a couple vices.  Jesslyn wasn’t too excited about sleeping on the ground in the jungle, especially since we had just seen a tarantula the size of a dinner plate.  We, I mean she, was pleasantly surprised in the morning to still be alive and unharmed when we, I mean she awoke in the morning.  There was just one problem, we were awoken by the sound of the wild pigs, very close by.  We could hear their snorts, but what I didn’t expect was the loud clattering of their teeth.  Was it a reminder that they have giant incisors that can tear flesh with ease, or was it a battle call to attack the gringos?  When we heard the noise,  Jimmy said, “pigs!”.  We didn’t know if he meant, “wow, neat-o, pigs!”, or if he meant, “oh shit, climb a tree immediately, pigs!”.  Luckily it was the former.  On our walk after breakfast, we were able to get up close enough to the pigs to see a few of them though the dense vegetation.  

We escaped unharmed with a few souvenirs; our tattoos, bug bites, and photos.  While we enjoyed the jungle, two nights were enough.  

 - Jake

 

Pampas Photos

The squirrel monkeys were not afraid of us.

This guy didn't seem too concerned either.

What the stink birds lack in pleasant aromas, they make up for in exoticness.

We saw so many herons, but only this one had this strange pose.

 

Jungle Photos

Not what you want to see before heading to sleep on the ground.

The amount of water that gushed from this vine was unbelievable.

Jimmy applying my war paint.

Our accommodations for night 2.

Sucre and La Paz, Bolivia

When we changed buses in Potosi, the halfway point to Sucre from Uyuni, I think we were scammed.  We had purchased a ticket from a specific bus company to Sucre, and I knew we needed to change buses in Potosi.  After getting off the bus and collecting our bags in Potosi, I asked the driver where to get the other bus to Sucre.  He asked to see our tickets, then proceeded to put them in his pocket and refused to give them back when I asked several times.  He brought us to a different bus station, and bought tickets for us on a different company's bus.  This bus was full of locals, and made many, many stops.  Oh well, not that big of a deal since we arrived in Sucre safe and sound, although maybe a couple of hours later than we had planned.

A quick side note on Potosi...  This city is home to the "cerro rico", or "rich mountain" from which 60,000 tons of silver has been extracted.  A few private Spanish entrepreneurs as well as the Spanish crown became fabulously wealthy as a result.  However, this was at the expense of the forced labor of the local indigenous people.  So many of them died working in the mines, the Spanish started importing slaves from Africa.  It is bad enough that all this wealth was ripped from the earth inhabited by indigenous people, and dispersed to the wealthy Europeans, but even more disgusting to think that the natives died performing forced labor in the process of making the wealthy thieves even wealthier.  This is starting to become a more and more common story as we venture into the parts of South America where there are more indigenous peoples.

Sucre is a charming colonial town with narrow, cobblestone streets,  despite being choked with exhaust from the local buses.  “Sucre" means sugar in French (not in Spanish, that's azucar), but it has nothing to do with the etymology - the city was named after the Bolivian revolutionary hero, Antonio Jose de Sucre.  The small city is the "constitutional" capital of Bolivia.  This means it is the capital on paper, and is home of their version of the supreme court, but nothing more.  The government is run from the largest city and de facto capital, La Paz.   We stayed in a quaint (small) apartment we rented through AirB&B.  We enjoyed shopping for food in the local market and cooking for ourselves.  We formed a relationship with one of the produce vendors and she would always throw in some extra stuff for us at no charge.  We learned a bit about Bolivia's and Sucre's history on a walking tour of the city.  Currently, it seems that Bolivia is as polarized politically as we are in the States, and the socialist president, Evo Morales seems to be at the center of it.  All over Boliva is graffiti saying either “Evo, Si” or “Evo, No”, advertising for past and future elections and referendums.  

The primary reason for going to Sucre, and the highlight of our time here were our Spanish lessons.  We had semi-private (just me and Jesslyn) at the Fenix school.  Our professora, Tatiana, was awesome.  She forced us to speak in Spanish, she told us her incredible life stories (in Spanish), and she always had local food specialties for us.  We had class from 9am to 1pm each day for a week, and wanted to volunteer in the afternoons.  Unfortunately, the orphanage the school worked with was not allowing volunteers due to some recent abuse.  So, instead, we assisted with English classes for a group of teenagers a couple of nights.  We really enjoyed it, as we not only were able to help in a small way, but we also were able to practice our Spanish with them, and learned more about the culture.  I didn’t know that many Bolivians believe in ghosts, we were told it is because houses in the countryside were built with adobe bricks containing the bones of deceased family members.  As the soft bricks erode, the bones become visible!  Sucre was a great experience, it was nice to have a daily routine and to sleep in the same bed for 8 nights in a row.  From Sucre, it was on to La Paz.

Ironically named La Paz ("peace" in English), is a big, busy, noisy, city high up in the Andes.  (As we were looking at our itinerary online, unknowingly to us, our browser translated La Paz, and Jesslyn said, "Uh oh, this is wrong, it says we are going somewhere called "Peace").   At nearly 12,000 feet above sea level it is the highest de facto capital in the world (remember it isn't the official capital).  We were often reminded of the altitude as we gasped for breath walking up the steep hills.  We did two different walking tours of the city and learned even more about the tumultuous history and the current political situation.  Connected by one of several gondolas, is the economically challenged neighboring city of El Alto.  It is home to a permanent market that covers 200 blocks, where you can find anything from food, to clothes, to hardware, and random auto parts.  As we walked by a blanket that had a car axle, springs, and gears, I wondered how anyone could find the specific part they needed.  El Alto is also home to comically ridiculous Cholita wrestling.  Cholitas are the name given to the women who dress in the brightly colored traditional clothing, skirt, and often a bowler hat too small for their head.  We were amused by the spectacle until we found ourselves getting caught in the crossfire as locals threw food and drink at the wrestlers they despised.

Traditional Bolivian woman meet WWF.

The public transportation in La Paz in interesting.  There are many private minibuses that run regular routes and fill the void left by the small number of official city buses.  The city buses are incredible, they are straight out of the 1970’s, literally.  They are vintage 1970’s (my best estimate) Dodge buses painted with designs from the same era.  I suppose the lack of salt on the roads helps to keep these beasts running.  In contrast, the brand new gondolas, called the Teleferico are modern and efficient.  There are currently three lines which connect various neighborhoods as well as the cities of La Paz and El Alto.  Seven more lines are being planned to help alleviate the chaotic traffic and associated pollution and need for gasoline.

What year is this Dodge bus?

The city of La Paz from the Teleferico with Mt. Illimani looming in the background at over 21,000 feet.

The couple of days we spent there were plenty, and we were happy to leave La Paz to head to the much warmer Amazonian area of Bolivia near Rurrenabaque, but we'll save that for another post.

 - Jake

Our Year of Travel

Is it possible to feel like time has both flown by and gone by really slowly?  I can't believe that we've already been traveling for a year but at the same time, it feels like a lifetime ago that we boarded the bus in Salem, NH for Logan Airport.  That was one year ago today.  This journey was just beginning as we boarded a flight to London for a quick one night visit with Lynn and Rob before going to Scotland for 13 nights.  It feels like that was a very, very long time ago.

I posted our seven month stats before we arrived in Hong Kong.  Since then we've had our share of stressful situations such as being robbed while sleeping in our campervan in New Zealand and being robbed at gunpoint in Buenos Aires.  However, we've learned to be smarter travelers due to those incidents and we are stronger, wiser people because those things happened to us.  What I choose to reflect on instead is the wonderful moments we've had, and there are too many to count.  I continue to be amazed at how beautiful our planet is.  When we flew over the Andes, it was an experience I will never forget, an unexpected treat and emotional, top life-moment.  I frequently reflect on how beautiful Scotland, Norway and New Zealand are and you'll often hear me telling younger travelers that they should get a work visa and go live in New Zealand for a year or two.  Also, despite how much time we spend together, Jake still makes me laugh every single day.  I'm a lucky woman to have found the person I'm meant to experience life with.  We continue to meet people and visit places that make us reflect on how lucky we are to have been born in the times we live in, into the families we come from and in the place we come from.  The stories we hear of hardships other people have had to endure just to survive on a day-to-day basis makes us remember that we are incredibly fortunate people.  

One Year Stats*:

  • Days on the road:  365
  • Countries visited: 22
  • Number of different cities we’ve spent the night in:  110
  • Longest consecutive stay in one city:  15 nights in Florence, Italy
  • Longest stay in one accommodation: 10 nights in Nha Trang, Vietnam and 10 nights in Ko Chang, Thailand
  • Flights: 33
  • Trains: 31
  • Buses: 22
  • Ferries / Boats: 24
  • Unique Accommodations: 127
  • Cribbage games we've played: 168
  • Books I've read: 34
  • Second Half Highlights (well, the last five months since the previous update was a seven month update):  
    • Flying over the Andes
    • Pretty much everything about New Zealand, especially experiencing it with my Aunt Sharon and Cousin Knox
    • Arriving in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile and feeling like I was on a different planet
    • Skygazing in San Pedro and seeing the moon and Saturn up close for the first time
    • After deciding not to go, changing our minds and booking a flight to Galapagos
    • Learning Spanish at two great schools, first at Ecela in Buenos Aires, Argentina and then at Felix in Sucre, Bolivia
    • Taking dozens of silly pictures on the Salar de Uyuni salt flats in Bolivia
    • Unexpectedly booking a trip to Japan and being able to share time with two great friends while experiencing a very unique culture

We’ve taken thousands of pictures, and in this post I wanted to share some favorites, but that is an overwhelming task as there are so many that I love.  If you follow us on Instagram at _no_permanent_address_, in the moment (or as close to it as possible), I post my favorites there.  You can find our other favorites on the Photos section of this site.  Here are a few favorites.  The first two are purely because when I look at the photo, I immediately go back to how happy I was in that exact moment.

Either Sharon or Knox took this photo of me while we were out enjoying Doubtful Sound in New Zealand

This is a screenshot of the video we made for our Christmas Blog while in Nha Trang, Vietnam

Let's just say that I was really, really, proud of catching this fish all on my own.

Having a blast rafting near Rotorua, New Zealand

Jake and i enjoying the view of the Blue Mountains near Sydney, Australia

Enjoying acting like kids again while on the salt flats of Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia

I think that I'll always be a different type of traveler now.  I won't pack as many things as I used to.  I won't think twice about traveling for 48 hours straight if it means at the end of it I'm off of the beaten track somewhere beautiful.  I'll drive further distances in the United States if that's cheaper than flying.  I'll take more buses and trains.  I'll travel more within the United States.  I don't know why I wasn't that interested in seeing more of the U.S. before, but now I realize that there are mountains and lakes and valleys and wildlife within my own country that I should be seeing.  If I was going to do a trip around the world (for the first time) again, there isn't too much I would change, but there are a few things.  This journey isn't over for us just yet so I'm not ready to reflect on those now.  I am taking notes and post-trip I'll share those feelings.

In the months ahead we will visit Peru, Ecuador and Mexico.  As much as I am looking forward to experiencing these beautiful places, I can't wait to arrive in New England and receive ginormous hugs from my family and friends.  I don't want this trip to end as I love traveling around the world with Jake, experiencing new cultures.  However, I really, really miss family and friends and am looking forward to a schedule that involves spending time with them regularly.  I also look forward to brushing my teeth with water from the faucet, eating real ice cream like we make best in New England, running (a lot), having my own pillows, wearing different clothes and jewelry, and catching up on my favorite TV shows that I haven't had access to in a year!

~ Jesslyn

 

* The transportation stats above represent how we got from point A to point B.  For instance, to get from Nha Trang, Vietnam to Phnom Penh, Cambodia, we took one night train to Ho Chi Minh City and then a bus into Cambodia.  We didn’t include time spent on subways, intracity buses/trains because we’ve taken far too many trips on those to count.  We counted train travel that was more like taking the Amtrak back in the U.S.  In addition, we rented a car in Scotland, Norway, twice in Italy and Australia.  We also rented motorbikes in order to explore the islands of Milos, Cres, Mljet and Ko Chang.  Since Jake met up with Lynn and Rob in Budapest while I explored more of Italy with my Dad, I’ve technically been to one fewer country.

Making Our Way to Salar de Uyuni

The only direct way to get from San Pedro de Atacama in Chile to Salar de Uyuni (the Uyuni Salt Flats) is in a 4x4 across the desert and mountains, so we signed up for the 3 day/2 night trip.  We left San Pedro in a minivan with other travelers headed for the Bolivian border.  After about 45 minutes, we arrived at the border crossing, which was nothing more than a shack.  The border itself was literally nothing more than a line drawn in the sand.  We entered the building, got our passports (already containing Bolivian visas) stamped, then switched vehicles.  Our new ride was a four wheel drive Toyota Land Cruiser.  There were seven of us in the vehicle, including our driver/tour guide Gilmar.  Our bags went on the roof along with the gas cans and water jugs.  Along for the ride was, Mari from Brazil, Iva and Charlotte from Norway, and Tahlia from England.  

As we departed the border, it became apparent why we were in a 4x4.  There aren’t really any roads.  Instead, there are tire tracks in the sand and dirt which suggest where to drive.  At times tracks went off in different directions with zero indication of where they were headed.  It seemed completely impossible to navigate in this environment, so I asked Gil how he knew which way to go.  “GPS”, he replied and pointed to the display in the dash.  Ah that makes sense.  But after examining the display, it only showed what was playing on the radio.  I think he just said that to make us feel more at ease.  

On our first stop after crossing the border, we visited the green and white lagoons.  These are picturesque lakes surrounded by the tall peaks of the Andes.  They were incredible, but didn’t blow us away, because we had recently seen similar lakes in Chile.  Next, we went to the salt lagoon where the draw is a natural hot spring that you can soak in.  Jesslyn and I tested the water temperature and decided that it wasn’t hot enough for us since the air was about 40 degrees and we didn’t want to freeze to death after getting out.  Instead we decided to try our luck getting some pictures of the nearby vicuñas, the wild ancestor of the domesticated alpaca.  We had seen many of them before, but they have always been very skittish, so we never got a close up photo.  Luckily, these guys didn’t mind our presence too much.  I am a little disappointed in myself because I forgot to turn the vibration reduction on my lens back on after turning it off for use on the tripod.  So, the pics aren’t as sharp as they should be.

A vicuña checking out us gringos.

The next stop was at the Morning Sun Geyser Basin.  Technically, there are no geysers here, because the water doesn’t shoot out of the ground.  Instead, thermal pools of water and mud steam and bubble on the surface.  This area is incredible for the thermals but also because there are no barriers between you and the boiling hot water bubbling from the earth.  Sometimes I think we get too carried away with safety in the U.S. and that it detracts from the enjoyment of natural beauty.  However, I would have felt better if some of the people hopping around the edges had something between them and their plummet to certain death.  Just another reminder, we’re not in the U.S. anymore, and we have to take responsibility for our own safety.

Don't fall in!  Thermal pools with boiling water at the surface.

The highlight of the day came at the last stop.  The red lagoon is so-named because of the micro organisms that give it an eerie red color.  It is still strange to see flamingos high up in the cold mountains and even stranger to get a picture with both llamas and flamingos in the same shot.  We hadn’t seen many llamas up to this point.  They let us get right up close to them and seemed to enjoy getting their picture taken.  They look like they are always smiling.

The llamas roam free, but are apparently owned by someone.  The colorful yarn indicates who the owner is.  They let you get within a couple feet of them.  When they get thirsty, they would make their way down the hill to drink from the lake they share with flamingos.

That night we stayed in a tiny village called Villa Mar.  Bolivia has no coast, so I don’t need to mention we were not by the “mar” or “sea”, so I asked why it was called that.  Well, it just happens to have more water than anywhere else for miles.  So it is sort of a tongue-in-cheek name.  The accommodations were, um, well, budget.  It was freezing, and there was no heat.  The floors were concrete.  Some rooms had only cloth for a roof, and you had to go outside to get to the bathroom.  I just told myself that we were camping, but without the campfire, or beer, or s’mores.  Besides, it is the only accommodations for many, many miles, so if you want to see this place, you stay there (or sleep on the ground).  That night I had a headache, due to the altitude.  During the day, we spent a significant amount of time over 16,000 feet above sea level.  Villa Mar, where we slept, is at 13,000 feet.  The altitude was very obvious any time we tried to do something remotely physical, like walk up a hill.  Even after spending close to a week near 8,000 feet in San Pedro, the altitude still got to us.  I am not sure if all the coca leaves we chewed helped, but I enjoyed the mouth numbing effects anyway.

On day two our first stop was to see some pre-Incan paintings located on some rocks just outside of Villa Mar.  We parked the Land Cruiser at a nondescript spot, and walked a couple hundred feet up to a spot were there were four or five red paintings in amazingly good condition.  Wait, what?  There are 1000+ year old paintings just sitting there on some rocks with no fences, security guards, or ticket booths?  Is this a hoax, or are we just in a place where it isn’t that big of a deal?  I did a little research on the internet, but couldn’t discern either way.  Several websites nonchalantly mention them as something to see in the area.  If they are real, they are incredible, and even more incredible that they are still there, unmolested by wind, rain, and man.  We were told that the wind comes from the opposite side of the rock wall, therefore these paintings are well protected from the weather.  Next, we visited the valley of rocks.  I know, it doesn’t sound all that exciting, but it was cool to see all the different pillars and arches.  After seeing and getting too close for comfort to the Grand Canyon like Inca Canyon, we stopped off at some wetlands.  Here is where the Andean Goose ekes out an existence in the winter by eating its own nest as the water freezes over.  We went to the black lagoon where I saw a couple viscachas up close.  They sort of look like rabbits, but have a long tail, and appear to be half asleep.  We also happened upon the remains of an unfortunate llama.

I should stay behind the camera.

Jesslyn makes a better model.

The rabbit-like viscacha, but with a long tail.

This llama has seen better days, but still makes for an interesting photograph.

I didn’t know that quinoa originated in this area.  This trendy grain that your vegan friends subsist on has tripled in price since 2008.  Except here it has only been a trend for about 3,000 to 4,000 years, since it requires little water and does well in high altitudes.  The reason it is only now popular with the rest of the world is that the Spanish colonizers scorned it as “Indian food”.  Today, Peru and Bolivia produce the vast majority of the world’s quinoa.

While driving through the vast open land of the altiplano (high plains), we saw many vicunas, and llamas, but I spotted an animal in the distance that looked like an emu.  We stopped and got out of the car for a better look.  The driver called them “suri”, and some further internet investigation reveals they are also called lesser rheas or Darwin’s rheas.  Along with their bigger cousins on the other side of the Andes, called the greater rhea, they are the largest birds in South America.  They are closely related to emus of Australia and ostriches of Africa.  I had no idea that large, flightless birds were native to South America.

On night number two, we stayed in a hotel made of blocks of salt that were cut from the nearby salt flats.  This place was much nicer than the previous night.  There were hot showers, good food, and even some Bolivian wine (I suggest sticking to the Chilean or Argentinian vino).  It was still cold and the bathroom was down the hall, but it was clean and had a proper roof and floor.

Day three started with sunrise on the salt flat, the main event of our journey.  We drove out to an “island” near the middle and hiked up a small hill before the sun was up.  It was great to experience the salt flat this way because we couldn’t really see it until we were already in the middle of it.  Salar de Uyuni is 4000 square miles and the world’s largest salt flat.  It is so vast that it disappears into the horizon in some directions.  The only thing I can compare it to is being on a very large frozen lake.  After sunrise and breakfast, we drove out to the middle to take some pictures.  I got the serious photos I wanted out of the way pretty quickly, then it was all fun and games.  Because it is so flat, and the horizon is unobstructed, it makes for some unique photo opportunities.  That combined with the super large depth of field (both near and distant objects are in focus) of phone cameras let you get some deceiving perspectives.  We felt like little kids and had so much fun.  

We don't really jump that high.  This is one of the illusions possible at the salt flats.

Mari is serving the rest of us up in a casserole dish.  The large depth of field with iPhones makes it difficult to determine distance of the subjects.

This short journey was one of the highlights of our almost year abroad.  The landscapes took my breath away (or that could have just been that altitude).  I loved learning about the local history and cultures.  It was great being away from the cities and enjoying the fresh air and quiet of this remote region.  Even though Gilmar didn’t speak English, his humor and personality broke through the language barrier (well, that and having Mari translate).  We were so fortunate to have a great group of people in the car.  Land Cruisers are big, but not so much when there are seven of you in it.  The others in our group were very fun, kind, and interesting, making for great travel companions.  It seems there is always at least one person in the group who is annoying, but not this time.  Wait a second... was it...  could it have been... oh man, sorry guys!  Too many bad jokes?  I will work on that.

 - Jake

PS:  We have been active on Instagram if you want to see some select and most recent photos.  Our tag is @_no_permanent_address_

Exploring the Atacama Desert in Northern Chile

After exploring the greater Santiago region, we took a two hour flight north to Calama, Chile.  Again we were graced with the beautiful presence of the commanding Andes mountain range below us as we flew.  Unfortunately neither of us had a window seat but the guy next to me didn't seem to mind too much as I peered out the window.  After we landed we had over an hour ride to our destination:  San Pedro de Atacama, a small town in the heart of the desert.  As we drove the 100+ kilometers I was surprised at the landscape.  I've never seen so much sand in one place before.  On each side of the paved road was barren landscape.  Once in awhile you'd see a turnoff with several cars parked and some sort of foreign structure.  I believe that these were mines.  Do you remember the Chilean mining accident back in 2010?  It happened in the Atacama desert.  If you don't recall, it was the mining accident where 33 men were trapped 700 meters (almost half a mile) below the surface and all of them were successfully rescued 69 days later.  We learned that mining is Chile's number one industry and the country produces more than a third of the worlds copper and has 40% of the worlds quantity of lithium.  I heard that tidbit of information on a tour and when I went to do some research, I came across an interesting article which talks about, "How South America's lithium triangle is gearing up to feed our battery addiction".  The triangle is made up of Chile, Argentina and Bolivia.  Fishing and agriculture are the country's other top industries.  In fact, Chile is the second largest producer of salmon in the world.  We look forward to catching some down in Patagonia on a future trip.  Did you know that today 60% of the worlds salmon is farmed?  Obviously we want to catch a wild one, not a farmed one.  Chile has both.  The other leading salmon producers are Norway, Canada and Scotland.  If you'd like to read more about that, check this out.  Unfortunately, my pallet still does not care for salmon. Obviously this has nothing to do with our time in the desert but I found it interesting and wanted to share.

Anyways, the surrounding landscape made us feel like we were on the moon.  However, before we knew it, it switched to red rocks and canyons everywhere which made us feel like we were on Mars.  Our Air B&B host in Melbourne grew up in Chile and had recommended that we visit the San Pedro de Atacama desert and explore the area via many day trips.  It was cheaper to book the trips with a tour company versus rent a car, so once we got to town we booked three excursions with Cosmo Andino.  The town of San Pedro de Atacama is 2,409 m (7,900 feet) above sea level and several of the sights are much higher than that.  I was worried about altitude sickness but luckily other than being noticeably out of breath on a few of the excursions, I felt OK.  Jake had a headache one day but it didn't bother him too much.

Kind of looks like a Western movie set, doesn't it?

Our first trip was an afternoon in the Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) and Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley).  We started in Death Valley which looks like Mars.  In fact, we were told that the man who named Death Valley attempted to name it Valley of Mars, not Death Valley.  In Spanish, the word for Mars (Marte) sounds very much like the word for death (muerte) and so people thought he was naming it Death Valley.  Whoops.  We ran down the sand dunes there which was fun and unexpected and followed by dumping out about a pound of sand from our shoes.  We saw people sand boarding which I had never seen before.  I think my brother would have loved to do that.

Next it was on to Valle de la Luna which is a great place to watch the sunset but unfortunately the day we went it wasn't very spectacular.  We still enjoyed it though but man it gets cold once the sun goes down!  On this trip we also saw salt in the wild for the first time (that sounds funny, doesn't it?).  As you'll see in the photo below, it looks like things have been dusted with snow but it's not snow, it's salt. Doesn't it look like the earth has been glazed with icing?  Yes, it is known that I have quite a massive sweet tooth.

Valle de la Luna

Salt, not snow nor icing!

Valle de la Luna

Salt, not snow nor icing!

On the second day we visited the the Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos and I saw flamingos in the wild for the first time as well as vicuñas.  I had never heard of the vicuña before but have since learned that it is quite an interesting animal.   They are a wild animal that is native to Peru, Northwest Argentina, Northern Chile, and Bolivia.  A relative of the llama, they are shy creatures that live at altitudes of 3,200 to 4,800 meters (10,500 to 15,750 feet).  They are one of two wild camelids found exclusively in South America.  This was the day where Jake had a headache as we traveled up to 4,400 meters (14,436 feet).

Vicuña sighting in the Andes

Apparently there are six species of flamingos and three of them live in South America.  Those would be the Chilean flamingo, the Andean flamingo and the James flamingo.  When you look at pictures of them they look incredibly similar so I can't be sure which we saw, we may have seen all three types.  Either way, it was special.  We saw them in lagunas and saw no more than a dozen at a time.  We were told that in the summer months there are sometimes hundreds of flamingos in the lagunas.  That would have been quite a sight to see.  I was surprised to learn that flamingos are only pink (or orange, except I've never heard of an orange flamingo) due to what they eat.  They are born with grey feathers and then because of their diet, their feathers are tinted accordingly.   Their diet consists of brine shrimp and blue green algae.  These things contain a natural pink dye called canthaxanthin (a keto-carotenoid pigment) and due to the fact that flamingos eat approximately 17 hours a day, they consume enough of it to change their color.

Jake took this incredible photo during our first of many flamingo sightings.

Flamingo in flight, so cool!

On the third day we woke up at 4AM to get ready for our 4:30AM pick up to go see the Geysers del Tatio.  Most of the tour companies go there for sunrise versus later in the day because its when the geysers look most impressive as the steam condenses in the cold air.  It was -8C (17F) when we arrived around 6:30AM.  The geysers are located in the Andes mountain range and are said to be the highest geothermal field in the world at 4,320 meters (14,173 feet).  There are over 80 active geysers making it the third largest geyser field in the world behind Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming and Valley of Geysers in Russia.  We were pretty underwhelmed.  We definitely didn't need to get up so early to go do this and could have skipped it altogether.  Oh well, if we didn't go we never would have known.

The rest of our time in San Pedro we did some worst case planning for Galapagos (if we can't get a deal on a live aboard) and caught up on writing blog posts.  Of course there was also our night of sky gazing.  If you missed my post on that you can read it here.  From there we headed into Bolivia which has blown away my expectations so far.  Stay tuned for Jake's post on that.  To see all of our photos from San Pedro de Atacama, click here.

~ Jesslyn

Sources:
http://www.sciencefocus.com/qa/why-are-flamingos-pink
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canthaxanthin
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/2010_Copiapó_mining_accident
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Economy_of_Chile
http://globalsalmoninitiative.org/about-us/about-farmed-salmon/
https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2016/mar/23/battery-lithium-south-america-chile-argentina-bolivia
http://www.livescience.com/27322-flamingos.html
http://www.explore-atacama.com/eng/attractions/tatio-geysers.htm
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geyser
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vicuña
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camelid

What a Galaxy

I'm not sure how I made it to this age with never having looked at the night's sky through a telescope.  In San Pedro de Atacama I fixed that.  We took an outdoor astronomy course with Atacama Desert Skygazing which is a one man operation by Jorge Fernandez.  For me, it was a highlight of this journey we've been on for the past 11+ months.  It will be impossible to forget seeing the stars sparkle up close, but it was even more memorable to see Saturn and its ring and the Moon and its craters.  Oh wait, and then there was Jupiter, its bands and four moons.  I saw these things!  I had many serious "wow" moments.  If you haven't looked through a proper telescope at the night sky please find a way to make this happen soon.  It reminded me of my first time SCUBA diving as I felt like I was being introduced to an entirely new world.  It's a wild sensation to discover something that had previously been unexplored (by me).  How many other experiences are out there in this world that would make me feel this way?  I wasn't searching for such a feeling but I'll tell you, it feels good, really good.

Jorge grew up in the area we are staying in in Chile, San Pedro de Atacama.  He studied tourism and by day is a local guide to the many sites around the area.  In the evening, he hosts various levels of astronomy/skygazing outings on his rented land.  He is a self-taught Astronomer and only began exploring this passion through his own research and studies less than 15 years ago.  I realize I'm a novice, but I was thoroughly impressed with his knowledge and if he didn't tell me, I never would have imagined that he didn't study astronomy at university.  His passion was absolutely contagious.  I'm going to guess that you probably haven't heard of San Pedro de Atacama.  It's small town in the Atacama desert with approximately 2,500 residents.  The Atacama desert is one of the driest places on earth and due to its low humidity, low presence of clouds, high altitude, and lack of pollution and radio interference (because there are no big cities anywhere close-by), it is known as one of the best places in the world for astronomy.  In fact, there is an international astronomy facility located within the San Pedro de Atacama dessert due to its prime conditions.  It is called ALMA which stands for the Atacama Large Millimeter/sumillimeter Array.  It is a partnership of many science foundations including the ones from the U.S., Europe, Japan, Canada, Taiwan and South Korea.  More about that in a future post.  Since this is obviously one of the best places in the world to observe the nights sky, I signed us up to do just that.

Our class consisted of five students in total and lasted about four hours.  For the first hour and forty minutes we sat in chairs underneath the moonlit sky while he taught us the basics of astronomy as well as its history, and he pointed out several constellations, stars and planets in the sky with some sort of incredible laser.  It really seemed like his laser was reaching the star etc., you knew exactly where he was pointing.  I have no idea how that worked (when Jake read this blog he laughed at me and said, "Yeah Jesslyn, it's called a laser pointer", but I've never seen one used like that!).  One thing I learned is that stars aren't just white but may be a variety of different colors.  Perhaps this is very common knowledge, but I had no idea that stars were different colors.  After our instruction, it was time to get closer via the seven telescopes he had set up in his yard.  

A extremely brief history on the telescope: 

Dutch eyeglass maker Hans Lippershey is credited with inventing the first telescope probably because he was the first person to apply for the patent.  That was in 1608, the device had three-times magnification and was not called a telescope but a "Dutch perspective lens".  It consisted of a convex objective lens and a concave eyepiece.  The story goes that two children were playing in Lippershey's shop with two lenses, he observed that it made a distant weather vane appear closer, and thus the idea for his design was sparked.  In 1609 Galileo heard about this new invention, quickly replicated one without ever having seen it, and dedicated years to improving its design.  Galileo's devices are the first ones to be called "telescopes".  At a banquet Galileo was honored at in 1611, a Greek poet/theologian invented the word.  It comes from the Greek tele = 'far' and skopein = 'to look or see'; teleskopos = 'far-seeing'.  

Johannes Kepler then designed a telescope with two convex lenses.  What's important about that is that working from Kepler's writings, Isaac Newton made a telescope out of mirrors rather than lenses and built his famous reflecting telescope in 1668. Centuries later it was Newton's design of the reflecting telescope that would go on to dominate astronomy and provide us with much of the information about the solar system that we have today.

Our observations:

As you'll see in the photos below, our class was outside and since its winter in the desert, it gets pretty chilly at night.  Luckily Jorge provided us all with fleece blankets you see most of us wearing as skirts.  He also had space heaters we stood around while we chatted and enjoyed hot drinks.  The moon was in its first quarter phase and was illuminating the sky quite a bit.  Despite that, we were able to observe a lot for the novice eye.  Two of the seven telescopes Jorge had set up were based on Galileo's design, the other on Newton's.  They had varying magnifications which allowed us to look at the same object through more than one telescope and be able to appreciate the differences in the technology and magnification ability.

The five of us looking through the telescopes.  Jorge took this picture using a tripod and slow shutter speed.  That combined with a little moonlight makes it look like daytime.

Jake took this picture of the Milky Way using our camera, a tripod and a slow shutter speed.  No magnification!

One of the first things I got to see through the telescope was a sparkling blue star and I couldn't believe my eyes.  Blue indicates that the star is "new" and very hot.  The blue star that we looked just happened to be in the Virgo constellation which is my Astrology sign.  Maybe that's why it's always been my favorite color?  As I sit here writing this blog, I was curious to know more about this blue star.  According to space.com, this star is called Spica, but is also known as Alpha Virginis and is actually a blue-white star.  It is the 16th brightest star in all of the night sky and is located about 260 light-years from Earth.  In other words, if you were to travel at the speed of light, which is impossible, it would take you 260 years to get from Earth to the star.  Spica is also believed to be about twice the size of the sun and have 2,300 times the luminosity of the sun.  Huh?!  This is so hard for me to comprehend and I find it amazing.  I have a hard time believing that we Earthlings could deduce something like this, but I trust it as the stars have been utilized and studied for thousands of years.

I had a hard time really seeing the color of the reddish and yellowish stars we looked at, they looked kind of white to me, but the blue star was completely apparent.  Then we looked at various parts of the Milky Way, things like open clusters and closed clusters (globular clusters).  Yeah, I had no idea what those things were either.   We looked up at the sky with our naked eye and using his laser, Jorge showed us the area in the sky that we were going to look at through the telescope.  The first was called an open cluster except what we were looking at with our naked eye just looked like a cloud over the milky way.  With our naked eye there were no stars to see.  Then we looked through the telescope and BAM! an explosion of stars.  Unreal.  For the closed/globular cluster, what we saw with our naked eyes was the same, cloudy nothingness, no stars.  Then when we looked through the telescope, BAM!  Except this time instead of an explosion of stars it was a cluster of stars very close together.  It reminded all of us of looking through a microscope at specimens.  It looks like that more than stars.  Unbelievable stuff.

How was Jorge able to quickly set up each of these telescopes in the exact location to observe these phenomenons?  He said it's easy, he knows the map of Southern Hemisphere sky and has memorized the coordinates of many, many objects.  For us true amateurs he ensured that it would be easy to do if you have the coordinates of what you want to see and enter them into the telescope.  Of course it's not actually that simple as the Earth is rotating and things may be a little off of the sky maps coordinates.  However, it sounds like with patience, a good eye and coordinates, you can navigate to find what you are looking for.  Of course the light of the moon is always a factor so the less moon the better when it comes to skygazing.

After looking at the above mentioned clusters in the Milky Way, we moved on to planets and looked at Mars, Jupiter and Saturn.  I couldn't really make out any reddish color when looking at Mars it just appeared big and bright.  I found Jupiter and Saturn much more exciting to look at.  I could see the bands on Jupiter as well as its four moons and the ring around Saturn!  I still can't believe that I saw these things, it was incredible.  I feel a bit silly admitting it because I'm sure that many of you have seen these things through a telescope decades ago.  Wait a minute - why didn't anyone ever tell me to go look for myself?!  Jake and I always talked about going to the Boston University observatory, but we never made it there.  The last thing we observed was the moon and it was spectacular to look at through the telescope.  We looked at it through three different telescopes beginning with the one that had the lowest magnification.  That was incredible in itself and as the magnification with the other scopes increased the wow-factor elevated along with it.  I can't believe that you can look through an amateur telescope and see craters on the moon!  I want to look at the sky through a telescope every night.  I don't see how it could get old.  Like SCUBA diving - there is so much to see!  I might have just picked up another expensive hobby.

Picture of the moon taken with my iPhone through one of Jorge's telescopes (thanks for giving me the iPhone Amanda!)

There was one other woman in the class who was as enthusiastic as me at what we were observing.  She jokingly said that we should timeshare a telescope together as we had previously learned that one of the really nice quality telescopes we were using goes for about $1000 USD.  That's actually much more affordable than I would have imagined given the quality of the devices we were using.

This blog was really fun for me to write.  Thanks for reading it!  If you want to nerd-out and go skygazing together sometime, let me know.  I'm very curious who of my friends and family is into this stuff and it just has never come up in conversation.  

~ Jesslyn

Going to Chile?  Be sure to go meet Jorge!  http://www.atacamadesertstargazing.com 

Sources:

http://www.space.com/17021-virgo-constellation.html 

http://www.space.com/21950-who-invented-the-telescope.html 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_telescope

http://www.explore-atacama.com/eng/atacama-guides/san-pedro-de-atacama.htm

Getting Out of Santiago

After a few days in Santiago, we rented a car and explored a few different regions within a couple hours drive of the capital.  While in Santiago, it seemed that not many people spoke English.  Once outside of Santiago, it seemed that absolutely no one spoke English with the exception of tour guides, and a couple of people who owned the properties we stayed at.  We loved it.  We were amazed how well we could communicate with the very little Spanish we know.  When we speak, we must sound incredibly stupid, not using complete sentences, mixing up gender and verb conjugations, but somehow we are generally understood.  In many of these places, there are few tourists, and even fewer gringo tourists, so we stood out and we felt it.  Most everyone was very friendly and spoke slowly to us to help us understand.

Cajon Del Maipo
Our first stop was in an area called Cajon del Maipo, where we stayed one night in a cabin.  We had wanted to do a hike in the national park near there, but couldn’t because the only road into the park was closed due to snow.  Instead we decided to drive to a scenic lake (technically a reservoir) to take some pictures.  As we were driving there, the road turned from pavement, to dirt.  The potholes in the road could almost swallow our tiny economy class rental car.  The mini ravines cut through the road by water runoff had to be navigated carefully.  I had to shift to first gear a couple times to get the underpowered vehicle up the steep hills.  We steered clear of the edge of the road that was crumbling down the side of the cliff.  We forded a stream running across the road.  We kept climbing in elevation, and when the road became covered with a slick icing of snow, we decided to park and continue on foot to the El Yeso reservoir.  This reservoir is at almost 10,000 feet above sea level and supplies Santiago with most of its drinking water.  After a short walk, we were rewarded with spectacular views and a few pics to take home.  I am glad we parked the car where we did, as it is listed as one of the world’s most dangerous roads (http://www.dangerousroads.org/south-america/chile/5281-embalse-el-yeso.html).

The ice and snow at El Yeso made for some nice photos.

Notice the road to my right.  We figured it was best to leave it to 4x4s.

Santa Cruz
The people of Chile have been producing wine ever since the Spanish settled here.  However, it was produced primarily for domestic consumption until the 1980’s.  It is now the world’s fifth largest wine exporter.  I think I must have had some bad South American wine at one point in my life, because I used to steer clear of it.  I associated South America with Malbec which I had always found too “earthy”, a nice way of saying it tastes like dirt.  However, I stand corrected.  Like most things in life, one shouldn’t judge something based solely on a category, especially food and drink.  Saying you don’t like Chilean wine is like saying you don’t like Thai food.  First, quality varies greatly, but more importantly, it is too broad of a label to make such a judgement.  We had some great, and very inexpensive, Malbec in Argentina.  In Chile, we toured the Colchugua wine region around Santa Cruz.  This area is known for its Carménère a variety I was not familiar with.  At one point in time, this variety of grape was thought to be extinct since all of the vines in France were wiped out by the Phylloxera plague in 1867.  It wasn’t until 1994 that a French wine researcher was visiting Chile discovered that many of the vines that were thought to be Merlot were actually Carménère.  The Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot from this area are fantastic.  We did tours and tastings at three different vineyards, and had one of the best meals we’ve eaten in a very long time at one of them.  The next time you are picking up a bottle of vino tinto (red wine), don’t pass over the Argentinian or Chilean bottles because they are cheap.

The Fall after the harvest is a beautiful time to visit vineyards.

I caught Jesslyn sneaking a taste from the tank during a tour.

La Campana National Park
After Santa Cruz, we headed to a cabin just outside of La Campana National Park, a UNESCO biosphere reserve once visited by Charles Darwin.  Main road from the nearest village to the cabin was beautiful with the colors of Fall covering the trees and the grape vines, and and with orchards full of ripe oranges.  After the main road ended, we once again had to navigate a terribly maintained dirt roads, but it was worth the damage to the underside of the rental car.  The cabin was in a beautiful, quiet area.  We did a long hike to an abandoned quartz mine through a palm forest.  The Chilean Wine Palms are the girthiest palm trees I’ve ever seen, having trunks up to five feet in diameter.  In the past, the sap from these trees was boiled down to a sweet syrup which was called palm honey.  It was strange to see palm trees growing in the mountains along side of cacti.  It was a very relaxing and scenic area to spend a few nights.  As mentioned on the yesterday’s food blog, the closest village is where we found fresh baked bread at a tiny little shack of a store.  Also in town, we stopped at the local fruit and vegetable market and picked up local peppers, onions, spinach, and mushrooms to make dinner, as well as some apples.  There was no English being spoken in these places.  

The first time I have seen cacti next to palm trees.

The cacti made for interesting subjects.

Valparaíso
We ended our Santiago area tour with a short stay in the port town of Valparaíso, a once a thriving, wealthy city due to its location.  Ships traveling between Europe and the west coast of the US stopped here to re-supply, and wealthy merchants built extravagant homes and hotels.  It was in the perfect location for the ships making the long journey around the tip of South America, Cape Horn (BTW, that is where the saying “around the Horn” comes from).  After the Panama Canal was completed in 1914 this business in Valparaíso disappeared.  In addition to a small, modern shipping port, and an important Naval base, what remains now are the aging remains decorated with colorful street art.  Valparaíso has some noticeable similarities to La Boca in Buenos Aires.  The people are known as “portenos” (people of the port) and the buildings are colorfully painted and make liberal use of corrugated metal.  Luckily, this time we had someone to tell us the parts of town that were safe to wander and those that were not.  Valpo also reminded us of some of the hilly seaside towns in Italy like those in Cinque Terre and the Amalfi coast because of the colorful houses pouring down the steep hills into the sea.  The town has a tangled web of narrow streets making driving a nightmare.  It is however very walkable due to the 12 funiculars linking the downtown area with the more residential hilltops.  A lift only costs 15 cents.  The first funicular built in 1883 uses steam power and is still in operation.  I don’t know exactly where the line between graffiti and street art lies, but Valpo has its share of both.  While some of the street art is done secretly and technically illegally, some of it is commissioned by the owners of the buildings, and some murals are even labeled with official plaques and appear on maps of the city.  Besides making the city streets pop with color, the vibrant street art actually deters the ugly graffiti and tagging.  A blank wall would soon be covered with the talentless spray painted scribble, but perhaps out of respect, you don’t see it on top of the impressive murals.  We did two different free walking tours, took a short boat ride around the harbor, and ate some good food.  Just an hour and fifteen minute drive from Santiago, if you ever find yourself in Chile, Valparaíso is absolutely worth a visit.

One of the many colorful hills.

One of our favorite examples of street art.

 - Jake

PS:  All of the photos have been uploaded.  You can find the links on our photo page.  You will also find the pics from Atacama, the most photogenic area we've been to in a long time.  The blog for Atacama is coming soon!

 

 

Chorillana, Completos, y Terremotos

While Chile isn’t renowned worldwide for its cuisine (how many Chilean restaurants can you think of?), we have had a few special food related moments here.

Jesslyn already mentioned the lomito sandwich with a base of pork and topped with your choice of avocado, tomato, sauerkraut, melted cheese, and/or mayo.  Sandwiches are very popular here.  It is often your choice or chicken, pork, or beef with any of those toppings.  My favorite is the Italiano which means topped with avocado, tomato, and mayo.  I can't stop thinking about the hot dog that way, or "completo Italiano" I ate last night.  Oh and the sandwiches are always on fresh baked bread, which is everywhere.  While we were way out in the boonies near La Campana national park, we were driving through a tiny village and stopped at a little shop for some beer.  The smell of freshly baked bread overwhelmed us as we walked in to what could honestly be called a shack.  We asked for “dos panes” and received two of the typical pieces of individual, round pieces of bread, still warm.  We intended to eat them for breakfast, but one of them didn’t make it longer than 5 minutes after we got back to the cabin.

While in Valparaiso, we had a few more Chilean specialties.  The first was chorillana, which starts with a platter of french fries, topped with sautéed onions, chunks of beef, fried eggs, and sometimes cheese for good measure.  One order is enough for two people to split.  That meal was more special because it took place in a restaurant that hasn’t been restored since circa 1945.  It was recommended by a local, and when we went by we couldn’t tell if it was open.  We asked “abierto?”, and got the affirmative, then motioned to a back dining room.  A liter of beer and the chorillana set us back $8 including tip.  To make it even better, they didn’t speak a lick of English, but that didn’t matter.  They didn’t have menus anyway.  We knew what we wanted to eat there, and when the waitress came by she simply said, “chorillana?”.  Easy enough.  Chorillanas are not the only dish served atop fries, onions, and fried eggs.  Many restaurants serve a steak, chicken, or fish that way.  It is called "a lo pobre”, loosely translated as “poor man’s style".  For example if you want a relatively inexpensive, yet large and hearty meal, you could order “pollo a lo pobre”.

Also in Valparaiso, we had been told about a special drink called a “terremoto”, or “earthquake”.  Stories of the invention of this drink vary, but the one I like best (and probably slightly better than the truth) goes something like this... A restaurant wanted to serve a sweet drink to a special guest, who happened to be a German reporter.  The bartender started with a cheap white wine and added grenadine.  It wasn’t quite sweet enough, so they added some of the pineapple ice-cream they happened to have on hand.  After four of these monstrosities, the guest stood up and promptly fell to the ground.  He later wrote that there was an earthquake at the exact moment he lost his balance.  There was no earthquake.  The drink itself is good, but a little too sweet for me, and one is definitely enough.

As in Argentina, beef is popular in Chile.  We had one of our top ten steaks of all time at a vineyard in Santa Cruz of the Colchagua wine region.  We don’t normally go for the ribeye, but it was highly recommended.  We ordered them “a punto”, which seems to be slightly more medium than rare.  Typically, I think of ribeye as too fatty, but these were not.  They were incredible.  We started that meal with some delicious ceviche, which is chunks of raw fish marinated in lime juice and onion.  It was some of the best ceviche I’ve ever had.  Sorry to my Peruvian friends who take their ceviche very seriously.  I won’t mention the great pisco (a type of liquor made from grapes) we had here since there is some debate over which country has the best.  Some Peruvians don’t even consider the stuff made in Chile to be proper pisco.  We are going to Peru and I intend to do some “research” in order to determine which is better.

We love eating and trying all the new food popular in the places we visit.  I am excited to once again have some good food to write about!

 - Jake

The lomo a lo pobre, enough food for 2

Un Terremoto por favor!

Dictators and Revolutions

I just wanted to share a few things we are learning about the recent dark history here in Argentina and Chile that I never learned in school.  I suspect those of you reading this who are younger than me may also be ignorant on these topics, and perhaps those of you old enough to remember when it happened didn’t get the whole story at the time.  I don’t mean for this to be a history lesson since I am completely unqualified to teach such a thing, rather a reminder of what’s been happening with our neighbors to the south.

I had heard before that Argentina is still a little sore at the UK about the dispute over the Falkland Islands, or as they are called here, the Malvinas.  This became apparent when a group of us from the Spanish school were standing on a street corner waiting for someone to meet up with us.  A man who seemed to wash car windows when they are stopped at a red light started harassing us.  He wasn’t quite yelling, but speaking loudly and was obviously upset.  We didn’t know what he was saying, but luckily, Sole, one of the staff members from the school was with us so she could translate.  Evidently, he heard us speaking English, and therefore, thought that we must be from England.  Sole was polite enough not to translate all of the details for us.  She explained to him that none of us were British.  He didn’t believe her.  He grew more and more agitated by our presence and got a lot louder.  Then he squirted one of our fellow student’s leg with the cleaning fluid he used on the windows.  We decided it was time to move on.  I wonder about this guy’s mental stability and don’t believe he is representative of the majority.  The situation was not that big of a deal, but it was a reminder that the 1982 armed conflict over the Falklands wasn’t too long ago.  I had heard that Argentina decided to invade the British held islands to draw attention away from bigger problems within the country.  The whole thing backfired however, and the defeat of the Argentines in the brief conflict helped to bring down their military dictatorship ruling the country.  The Falkland Islands had changed hands a bunch of times throughout history, but have been under British control for hundreds of years, and the residents mostly identify as being British.  But on the other hand, it is only 300 miles off the coast of Argentina, and not remotely near any other country.  Argentina still thinks they belong to them.  

The dictatorship in Argentina started in 1966 when the democratically elected president was overthrown in a military coup.  The military ran the country in a brutal manner until it was finally ousted in 1983 and another president was elected.  That period is a very dark one in Argentina’s history.  This period includes what is called the Dirty War, in which thousands of opponents of the government went missing.  The common estimate is 30,000, most of whom were murdered.  Pretty bad stuff, and not all that long ago.

Chile’s recent history is strikingly similar.  In 1973, its own military bombed, then stormed the government palace in order to oust the democratically elected president, Salvador Allende.  Allende ended up dead, and it is unknown whether he was murdered or if he committed suicide (he was found with some number of bullet holes in him).  The head of the military, General Pinochet then decided that he (and the military) best run the country, which he did as an evil dictator for the next 17 years.  He did all the usual stuff you expect from an evil dictator such as imprison, torture, and murder those who disagreed with him.  Here is the effed up part...  the United States assisted in the coup which brought Pinochet to power.  Oops!  This is a really complicated story that I don’t know much about, so I will withhold any opinions here.  Allende was a socialist.  It was the peak of the cold war and the US wanted to thwart the spread of communism, but some say that Kissenger and Nixon should have gone to jail for war crimes (of which this was just one).

In Chile, to this day, on the anniversary of the coup, September 11th, people fill the streets to celebrate and protest.  To those on the left, Allende is a hero, to those on the right he is a villain.   And just the opposite with Pinochet who is a hero to the right and a villain to the left.  Those sides clash on this anniversary along with the police.  This is a vast over-simplification, and the more research I do to try and understand, the more confused I get.  Anyway, if you find yourself in Santiago on the 11th of September, I suggest staying inside, and certainly don’t wear an American flag or a Trump tee shirt.  

While we were in Santiago, there were protests of a different sort.  The first danger we were warned of was not theft, or muggings, or earthquakes.  It was the student protests, which I think are only dangerous if you find yourself caught between the police and the protesters (pretty easy to avoid).  At one point in time, university education was free in Chile, but that is no longer the case.  It is now a private industry, and many students are graduating with a tremendous amount of debt.  We also heard stories about how the schools keep changing the curriculum such that students must attend longer and longer before earning a degree (and paying more and more).  Not surprising with a for-profit enterprise.  Well, the students are fed up and are letting the world know.  The protests often turn violent as the students clash with police in clouds of tear gas.  More than one Chilean told us that Chile is like a pressure cooker and in the next year or so, things are going to explode.

I don’t want to paint the wrong picture here.  I have loved Chile so far and it is considered to be an extremely stable and prosperous nation ranking number one among Latin American countries in income, peace, and low corruption.  We have not experienced nor witnessed any crime, protests, violence, or even scams.  But the dictatorships are something that people still talk about here, so it would be misleading not to mention them in a travel blog.  Stay tuned for more blog posts on the out of the way places we’ve visited after Santiago.


 - Jake